JT's Closet

Overwhelmed

2011-08-04T19:21:00.000-07:00

The hum of the serge and sewing machine have not been heard here all week. Between dealings with home life and the thought that I'm really returning to college with class starting next week I've found myself a bit overwhelmed. And than to add on top of that the idea that it might be time for a new computer. Well you get the picture. So instead of sewing this week I've done a little digging through my patterns and fabric. Maybe next week I'll sew. But this week my mind is filled with the question PC or Mac? Which do you prefer and why? I'm going back to school for Digital Design so a great computer with great graphics is on the top of my to do list. Happy sewing until next time.

One Pattern Many Looks Entries

2011-07-31T19:39:00.000-07:00

It all started in June when I made my Lutterloh skirt . I fell instantly in love with it and knew I wanted to make more. This realization seem to come at the perfect time because PR had just started the newest contest and wouldn't you know it was there One Pattern Many Looks Contest. I wanted to enter. No, I had to enter but first things first I needed to reproduce the skirt more than once and some how make it different each time. Five ideas quickly came to mind and the were wonderful because each one would use some stash fabric.I'm excited to share with you 4 of the five ideas that came to life. A review on how Lutterloh Supplement 281 #145 has become a big part of my summer.

First up, a girl need some thing to play in on those hot days of summer. Why not a white denim skirt.?The fabric of this skirt came from Fabric.com and has been sitting in my stash for a year. I want this skirt to have a little personality but all the look of a pair of white denim pants. All the top stitching on this skirt have been done in black. The pockets I did the same way as I would on a pair of jeans.

Skirt number two was all about a casual shopping trip. We all know how we want to wear something comfortable yet fashionable when we go shopping. Especially clothes shopping. Why not a knit skirt. This skirt was made from some great double knit from the stash. I believe the fabric originally came from fabric.com. This fabric has a lovely cotton feel to it so I believe it may be a cotton/poly blend. I have never been able to find another double knit that feels like this. To spice up this version Fuchsia piping and top stitching was added. Can't forget the great Prada purse thrifted last summer.

"Girls just want to have fun oh, girls just want to have fun." Thank you Cyndi Lauper for invading the air waves well I grew up. This theme song of the '80's seemed to be constantly on. Unfortunately girls cant always have fun some times it down to business we need to go. That's were skirt number three will come in handy. It is made of a charcoal gray poly suiting I picked up last year during one of fabric.com wonderful sales. This winter paired with some black tights and a cardigan or jacket it will be perfect for the class room.

Last but not least is skirt number four. We all know there are those times when the candles are lit and the lights are dim. Our honey only has eyes for us. They're smiling eyes, happy to enjoy a little Friday night date night time. why not wear designer? This skirt is made out of a great piece of designer Woven Jacquard purchased during fabric.com designer sale fall of 2009. The piece I bought was too tiny to do much with it but this skirt fit it perfectly.

Oh by the way all my 4 tops are from the same pattern too. It is Lutterloh 277 #101 the review of the pattern can be found here and here. With a new school year approaching my household is about to see a few changes which includes me returning to college. Excited about it but also excited to switch over to fall sewing. Really needs some new dress pants. Happy sewing until next time.

Redo

2011-07-16T18:10:00.000-07:00

Lutterloh 281 #145 and Lutterloh 277 #101

Yep you guessed it I'm still working on my pieces for One Pattern Many Looks Contest on PR. Of course the top now I wont be able to include because I have changed it since I was not 100% happy with the original. If you recall The arm openings were huge and the it original length on me was more like a tunic or mini dress so I tucked it in with the white skirt.

On PR I was able to get some great suggestions on how to fix my issues. On the Lutterloh board mufffet and Miss Fairchild wonderful suggestions and on the plus size sew along several ladies directed me to these Webcasts. The one on fitting t-shirts/french darts and french curve were helpful. Thank you ladies.

I think my second top which I have named flower power fits much nicer than the first hot pink one. It is made with some poly knit from my stash that I rescued from Goodwill. Here is what I did.

Bottom one is the new pattern
the top is the original

1. I traced a second copy of my top front and back.
2. Drew two lines across the pattern one a little above high bust (line a) the second was at about high hip(line b).
3. Then I folded line a up 2 inches and I folded line b up 1 1/2 inches. This shortened the pattern by a total of 5 inches. I did the same to the back pattern.
4. I retraced my front facing piece.
5. I decided instead of raising the bust dart to change it to a french dart. So I lowered it and using the curve of my lutterloh ruler to help create a french curve.
6. When I sewed the new french dart I cut the extra material gathered in the dart to about 1/4 inch giving a smoother look.
7. The rest of the top was sewn identical to the original.
I am much happier with the second top. What do you think? Happy sewing tell next time.

One Pattern Many Looks Challenge and a New Top

2011-07-12T11:50:00.000-07:00

Challenge out fit idea 1

What do you do when Pattern Review starts there One Pattern Many Looks Challenge? You start doodling of course. A doodle has become my favorite way to plan an out fit. It doesn't have to look pretty and it doesn't have to be a professional sketch. I have no drawing talent but I at least can take the look from my mind stick it on paper and see if I can get close.

I decided that Lutterloh Supplement 281 #144 or 145 would be a great canvas to work with. The skirt is easy and adopts quickly to several fabrics and looks. So the challenge pieces started flowing in my mind. But this blog is not about the skirt it about a new top to go with my challenge piece number one. If you want to know more about the skirt you can here at PR or here at the blog.

Lutterlolh 281 #145 and Lutterloh 277 #101

I love loud bright colors and will wear them year around. I also like clothing that can be layered. This top seem to fit the bill as it can be layered over a tank, cami, turtle neck or t shirt. It can also be the under layer to a cardigan or jacket.

Pattern:

Lutterloh Supplement 277 #101

Pattern Description:

Basic knit tunic length top with v neck, bust darts and cap or short dolman sleeve.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lutterloh has no instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

This top is one of those that can go from season to season depending on what you add over or under it. The sleeves and the v neck are my favorite parts.

The bust dart. The dart is really located in a place that makes it hard to adjust. Also this is tunic length and just a tad long for that.

Fabric Used:

A rayon ribbed knit I found at Hancock Fabrics. Worth it to try this project but this top really grew.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

The main alteration in this top was trying to move the bust dart so it was really pointing towards the bust instead of the navel. I move my dart up an inch and a half and it still could be moved up more except the bottom of the sleeve is only a ½ away. Not sure how to approach that on the next top.

On this one I used the knit interfacing on the facing pieces. Once attached to the top they were under stitched and then top stitched down about a inch off the edge giving it a nice detail. I also used lace hem binding to stabilize the shoulder seam.

Next top I will also being shorting it by at least 5 inches. If I wore this one un-tucked you would only see about 2 or 3 inches of the bottom of my skirt. Way too long on me. I will also be adjusting the sleeve under arm about 2 or 3 inches to move that bust dart up another inch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Once I figure out how to deal with the darts I will be making it again. And yes I do recommend it for others it is a very versatile top.

Conclusion:

This is a great little tunic top that can stretch the season and add a little bit of interest to your wardrobe.

The Wonder Bread Shirt

2011-07-05T19:24:00.000-07:00

My Children have named this the Wonder Bread Shirt. If truth be told I knew something was familiar about that print. This shirt is whimsical why not wear it with an orange skirt. All joking aside I finished this up and some panties with my long 4th of July Holiday weekend.The top is not my favorite but it will see it wear on these long hot days of summer mother nature has finally decided to bless us with. Today I wore the top in our heat and felt fairly cool and comfortable.

Top: Lutterloh Supplement 280 #29 and Skirt BurdaStyle 3-2010-136

Pattern:

Lutterloh Supplement 280 #29

Pattern Description:

Scoop neck knit top with band of different color a neck, sleeve and hem.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes kind of

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lutterloh has no instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Likes: My children have named this the wonder bread shirt. The slightly puffy sleeve was a nice surprise.

Dislikes: This shirt is very loose fitting which is not apparent in the picture. Also I would have to say the neckline is more boat shaped since it is very open. This causing me to wonder if the shoulders were drafted different in this one.

Fabric Used:

A whimsical dotted knit from JoAnn Fabrics and Crafts bought a year ago.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

½ inch narrow should adjustment. But it was not enough. The neck is very open on this one almost a boat neck. Think it may have been drafted for someone with broader shoulders because on me it became a drop sleeve garment. To give you an idea, the neck band seam is where my shoulder ends. Also I left off the band at hem because the top was already quiet long.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Not so sure I will sew this again. I would have to do several alterations to make this work the way I want it. It might be the perfect top for someone else. The pieces fit well together and it sewed up nicely.

Conclusion:

Although I am slightly disappointed with my wonderfully whimsical wonder bread shirt I have to admit the loose fit has worked nicely on these hot days of summer.

Me Made June the Final Days

2011-07-03T17:13:00.000-07:00

The challenge is finally done. What I learned from Me made June is that I have a few garments that I grab over and over and over again and that I also have some holes in my wardrobe. The goal is to slowly build my wardrobe up so that 90% of the clothes I have are me made. Also creating mini wardrobes of 6 or more pieces in the same color story seems to work well when putting outfits together. On to the outfits.

Day 20 Sweater: Thrifted, Top: Lutterloh Special Edition 31 #6, Pants: Macy's Jeans.
Day 21 Top: Lutterloh Supplement 279 #203, Pants: Lutterloh Project Jeans, Fuller Figure #137 copyright 1996.
Day 22 Hoddie: Macy's, Top: McCalls 5977, Pants: Macy's Jeans.
Day 23 Sweater: Kohls, Top: BurdaStyle Magazine 02-2009-118, The cutie on my arm is my great nephew.
Day 24 Some days you just feel like lounging. Today's lounge wear is vintage Lutterloh from the 1970 book #416 copyright 1969.

Day 25 Sweater: Thrifted, Top: Top: Lutterloh Special Edition 31 #6, Pants: Simplicity 5074.
Day 26 Top: Lutterloh Special Edition 31 #6, Skirt: Lutterloh Supplement 281 #143.
Day 27 Top: Lutterloh Supplement 271 #45, Cami: Lane Bryant
Day 28 Gray Top: Thrifted, Green Top Butterick 5100
Day 29 Top: Lane Bryant, Pants: Lutterloh Project Jeans, Fuller Figure #137 copyright 1996. Correction the Pants are actually BurdaStyle 04-2009-134.

Day 30 Hoodie: Macy's, Top: Lutterloh Special Edition 31 #6, Skirt: Burda Plus Fashion Spring/Summer 2008 (E985) 405.

I'm currently working on what my kids have named the wonder bread top. Happy sewing until next time.

A Few New Pieces.

2011-06-21T18:22:00.000-07:00

So what do you do when summer cant decide to come? It"s mid June and it seems like mother nature is going through PMS or something. One day it's 90F and hot Hot HOT and the next day it's a rainy 60F and everyone is pulling out long pants and hoodies.

For me that has put a hold on real summer sewing and instead I've been focusing on pieces that can be layered for easy of wear year around. Two of my Lutterloh patterns have become favorites. The first is Lutterloh Special Edition 31 #6. I've made this sleeveless darted pattern 3 times, and one of those times was as a dress. It still needs a little armhole work before I will totally call it a TNT but it's close. The second piece is Lutterloh 281 #145. This skirt I did in a fun denim.

Pattern:

Lutterloh Special Edition 31 # 6

Pattern Description:

This is a Fuller Figure pattern for a darted sleeveless knit top. A great alternative to summer tank tops or dress it up to replace a cami.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I’ve made this 3 times. Both tops look like the line drawing. My dress version looks a little different.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lutterloh has no instructions. If you have basic sewing knowledge and have put a simple knit top together you should be fine.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love that this top is simple yet the look of it changes depending on what type of fabric you use. It can be worn as a layering pieces but has enough shape to be warn alone.

What I didn’t like was that the arm holes are not snug enough. On my white version I did not stay stitch the neck and arm openings before binding and they stretched horrible.

Fabric Used:

For the multi color top a cotton blend knit from Fabric.com

For the white top cotton blend single knit from Hancock.

For the strip dress a poly/rayon I believe came from Hancock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

On all three tops I experimented with making a binding per Easy Guide to Sewing instead of the facing piece Lutterloh suggests. I was working on a more t-shirt look. Also on all three I did a ½ inch narrow shoulder adjustment.

On the dress I added 19 inches to the length, rounded out the hips slightly and tapered the hem in by a ½ inch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I will be sewing this again. Yes I would recommend this to other.

Conclusion:

This would be a great basic to add to any wardrobe. It can be dressed up or down depending on the fabric used.

Pattern:

Lutterloh Supplement 281 # 144 or 145

Pattern Description:

Easy fit a-line pull on skirt with two lengths and front pockets.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lutterloh has no instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

This is a basic skirt. It could be a wardrobe styple depending on what fabric you made it in or how you dressed it up. It gave me a chance to practice top stitching and creating clean finished pocket bags using the French seam technique I learned from the Lutterloh New Zealand Jean Design class.

At the moment maybe the pockets. I believe they are cut a little too deep. I used some jean making techniques to create them so the bags would be made from a cotton lining. I found when I finished the skirt I had to do a little tacking on outer edges of pocket to have functioning pockets with out the lining peaking through.

Fabric Used:

Light weight black denim with slight stretch rescued from Goodwill. The pocket bags are made from a butterfly quilters cotton given to me from my mom’s friend.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Slightly tacked the corners of the pockets by sewing on top stitch line about ½ inch at top and side of pockets. I also used jean technique of using lining fabric for pocket bags and clean finishing them with French seams.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I will be making this again. Yes it is a good basic skirt.

Conclusion:

This a great basic skirt that can be dressed up or down. Wonderful way to ad diversity to your summer wardrobe. For me I’ll be using it in place of always wearing crop pants.

Me Made June day 12 to 19

2011-06-19T16:40:00.000-07:00

Me made June is half over and this has been a fun experiment to see just how many of my me made creations I wear. It has also brought to light some holes in my wardrobe and at least one wardrobe malfunction or hum I wonder if I did this moment. Starting at the upper left rotating clock wise this is what I wore for my casual summer school work week. Bare with me my lovely teenage photographers are having a hard time shoting more than one shot to choose from.

Day 12 Top: Lane Bryant, Pants: Lutterloh 272 #201.
Day 13 Top: BurdaStyle Magazine 7-2008-118, Pants: Lane Bryant dress pants.
Day 14 Top: Lane Bryant, Pants: Burda Plus Fashion 2-2009-410
Day 15 Top: Lane Bryant, Pants: Lutterloh Jean Project Jeans 1996 #137
Day 16 Cami: Lane Bryant, Hoddie: Macy's, Pants: Simplicity 4375 Khaliah Ali

Again starting at upper left going clockwise.
Day 17 Sweater: Willow Bay, Top: Lane Bryant, Pants: Lutterloh Jean Project Jeans 1996 #137
Day 18 Top: Burda Plus Fashion 02-2010-410, Skirt: BurdaStyle Magazine 03-2010-136 made up in orange double knit with no zipper. Instead I put a 11/2 inch wide elastic at waist.
Day 19 Preview of dress made with Lutterloh Classic Collection 3 Special Edition No. 31 #6 top. A review to this is forthcoming.

Until next time Happy Sewing.

Tank dress or no tank dress?

2011-06-12T18:36:00.000-07:00

With all the lovely Dress Challenge dresses popping up all over blog land I thought it would be a great idea to make a tank dress out of some lovely stripe fabric I had sitting in the stash. Tonight I had my son snap some shots well I was fitting the dress and now I can't decide if this dress is scream tank dress or um I'm just a summer top. So please take a look at my pictures and let me know if you like it as a dress with or with out the ribbon waist. Or if you think It would better of as a summer top. It not to late for me to change it. Thank you for your help.

Day 11 and the Jean Adventure.

2011-06-11T12:32:00.000-07:00

And after 3 weeks the jean making adventure has come to and end with the production on my wearable muslin. I will be making more pairs in the future but for know a few short gratification products are in store.

This adventure start back here when I announced I would be to take the Jeans Design Project offered by Lutterloh New Zealand. It's a wonderful class and I would recommended it to anyone. Sonja directions and helpful hints made it very enjoyable to try throwing around five pounds of denim on my sewing table as it was being molded into a pair of jeans.

After cutting out my denim and creating the front pockets it felt like half of the work was done. what a good feeling. The front stay and the zipper made the front look put together.

The yoke on the back of this denim is cut deep. It som how works very nice with the deeper crotch found in the Lutterloh fuller figured patterns.

once the yoke was created we sewed the inner leg seam. and the crotch. The order worked but make it ard when it was time to do the double top stitching on the outer leg. If you have any ideas to make this easier let me know. My double needle did not like the denim this thick and I ended up using my edger foot to do all my top stitching.

Once I basted the side seams I fit them on me again and again. and again. until I felt that the looked ok. On problem I had was no matter how often I took in my waist band it seemed to keep growing. Also under the bottom I keep getting the line of fabric. Wondering if a flat but alteration would fix that.

After all this fitting was done it was a lot of fun deciding where oh where to place he back pockets and add all the finishing touches one it was all sewn up.

Over all I am happy with the final result and consider them a good working muslin.

Day 11 Lutterloh Jean Project jeans and Lutterloh Supplement 279 #203

Pattern:

The Pattern is the master provided by Lutterloh New Zealand’s Jeans Designing Project or Class. It is the full figured pattern #137 with a copyright of 1996

Pattern Description:

This is a simple 5 pocket denim jean pattern made with a relaxed leg.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you. A side not the Fuller Figure provides extra depth in the crotch.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes but mine were longer and had a few changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lutterloh has no instructions. But Sonja from Lutterloh New Zealand’s direction from the Jean making course are excellent. Only found one area about attaching the waist band that is not clear. Her directions use words as well as diagrams to help you along. Also I used the zipper directions found at Threads.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like that I could make these pants the way that I wanted too. The crotch depth is nice to don’t feel like I’m getting a wedgy or caring a wad of extra fabric. Mostly the relaxed fit was a pleasant surprise compared to the second skin look that seems a must because of the spandex in the denim.

Dislikes that I made the waist too big and still need to do some minor tweaking on the pattern. The yoke on this pattern also sits kind of low. I don’t really minded it but may try a pair in the future with this adjusted.

Fabric Used:

This was a dark denim that I rescued from Goodwill a few months back. It has a slight stretch to it that I didn't notice until I started this project.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Adjusted the waist by 4.25 cm. Ended up taking most of that out of it by making 1 inch seems. Pants still could have had a smaller waist. I also had to cut a new waist band almost 10 cm bigger because I think through all the playing with the fabric it grew. Created my waist band to be thin by only cutting out one strip and folding it in half. Made my belt loops thick. Per Sonya directions created a front stay. The front stay would be a great way to create a tummy slimmer. I made my back pockets very plan. Left off the rivets on this pair.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

This was a good pattern. I will be sewing it again and again as I want to fine tune and do some design changes. If you take the class good for beginners otherwise you need some knowledge of sewing this is not a easy project and takes some time.

Conclusion:

Great little jean pattern that can become a tnt after a little more fine tuning.

Me Made June days 4,5,6,7,8,9,and 10

2011-06-10T18:08:00.000-07:00

I'm going to get right down to the knitty gritty. There will not be a whole lot of commentary in this post but it will contain at least one picture for each day. I have spent the last seven days working hard on my Lutterloh jean making adventure through the Jeans designing project, which is a class offered by Lutterloh New Zealand. More on the Jean adventure later.

Day 4

Day 4 was one of our first really nice days. Perfect day to crayfish or just splash in the stream. I wore Simplicity 4632 top in a doted teal, silver and aqua and Burda Plus Fashion spring/summer 2009 411 pants in white denim.
Day 5 was just as warm but everyone wants to look there best on Sunday. Ok every day. So on day 5 I wore black short sleeve sweater thrifted, black and white doted cami from Lane Bryant and skirt Burda Style Magazine 3-2010-136.

Day 5

Day 6

Day 6 Another wonderfully scorching hot day. Were does a girl find some shade? Day 6's outfit Pants are Khaliah Ali Collection Simplicity 4375 that I made as crops back in July of 2008 and the teal top is a one hour pattern Butterick 5100 that dates at least that far back too.

Woo half way there.

Day 7

Day 7 My kiddos are getting tired snapping my picture everyday. Any one have a good way to bribe them? Just kidding.

On Day 7 it felt like summer was in full swing. Hot hot and more hot. I wore a gray pair of Burda Plus Fashion spring/summer 2009 411 in gray satin cotton. They are so soft. The aqua top is a Khaliah Ali Collection Simplicity 2948.

Day 8

Day 8 Still very warm for the first day of summer school. Want the dress comfortable but still professional for the environment. Top is Lane Bryant and pants are a Khaliah Ali Collection Simplicity 5074.

Day 9

Day 9 The temperature took a huge dive. How wants to put back on winter or early spring clothes? Not I. Coral Sweater is Lane Bryant and pants are Burda Plus spring/summer issue (E895) 410.

Just one more day this time around.

Day 10

Day 10 is my newest version of Lutterloh supplement 279 # 203. For this version I tried to make a ribbing neckline using the directions in Singer The Complete Photo Guide To Sewing.. I used the self fabric as my ribbing. It did not work quite the way I thought but I still love and ear this top that was made from a thrift store find.

Not sure whats up next on the cutting table. I'm guessing some instant gratification since the Jean project was time consuming. Until next time happy sewing.

Me Made June day 2 and 3

2011-06-03T15:57:00.000-07:00

Day 2 of Me Made June was an exciting one filled with many graduations, and all the busy end of the school year stuff. Wanted to feel cool yet business casual. Out of the closet came a Burda Plus Fashion sleeveless top plus a short sleeve knit jacket I picked up thrifting. This top I finished in early May and I've worn it quiet a bit since.

Pattern:

This is my rendition of Burda Plus Fashion spring/summer 2011 421

Pattern Description:

Burda Magazine has described this top as simple, figure hugging and sleeveless. TO me it is a dress alternative to your basic tank top.

Pattern Sizing:

Burda sizes 44-46-48-50-52-54

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes and no mine end up with little wings at my hipline.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

These are your typical Burda Magazine instructions. They are complete but at some points you wonder were they are going. What I learned was that the are accurate as long as you follow step by step.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Love that this top can be dressed up our down depending on what type of knit you use. It has nice thic straps so no bra peaking out.

Don’t really like how tight the underarms are. It not bad because you have no bra showing but next one I will make just a little looser in the underarm.

Fabric Used:

This was some poly knit I rescued at the Thrift Shoppe

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Using Pattern Fitting with Confidence I did a slide and pivot FBA of 15cm and need to add 26cm to the waist. This might have been over done since I end up with some wings at my hipline. Over all the top fit well.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I plan to make this again as it is very comfortable to wear and dress up nicely. Yes I do recommend it to others. Beginners make sure you follow the directions step by step.

Conclusion:

This is a fun and simple alternative to you normal basic summer tank.

Today which is Me Made Day 3 was a busy hot and stick last day of school. Wanted to stay cool standing out in the heat at the end of year carnival. So out came McCall's 5663. I originally made this now oop pattern back in the summer of 2008. Still love the flowiness of this thin knit top.

Time to get back to my jean design project. Happy sewing.

Me Made June Day 1

2011-06-01T15:40:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the first day of June. Today was a casual day at work and all I could think was the need for comfort in our unair-conditioned building. So today I wore my Burda crops originally made back in May 2009.

These pants come from the Burda Plus spring/summer issue (E895). I made them out of some lovely denim. You can read more about my rendition of Burda 410 on my pattern review of them. I matched them up with a simple tee that was a project that some of my local high school students have under taken. To learn more about their project and the t-shirt please visit their website.

Here is a close up of the shirt.

Me Made June Challenge

2011-05-31T22:02:00.000-07:00

After much anticipation and thought I have decided to take on Zoe's Me Made June Challenge. The idea of the challenge is to wear more of your own creations for one months. I believe this will help them get into the rotation of of ones wardrobe so I really love these types of challenges. This is my first time I will be going at it. So I'll be trying to keep it simple. I can't promise I will post daily but I will be posting what I wear. Hope you"ll join in the fun.

I, Jen of http://jtscloset-jen.blogspot.com/, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-June '11. I endeavour to wear
at least 3 of my self made garments each week for the duration of June 2011'

The Jean Class Begins

2011-05-30T21:54:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone. Sorry about the lack of posting. In the mean time I've been busy making a few more pairs of Lutterloh lounge pant for the gym and a few more tops. I'll post a review of the projects when there is a bit more time.

I wanted to give you an update about the denim and my question about the best way to learn. After much though I decided to pass up for the present on the Jeans for Everybody DVD. I think it maybe an excellent product and it will remain on my wish list. Instead I decided to take the New Zealand Lutterloh class Jeans Designing. I am very excited about this class. Sonja's materials for the class are excellent and well written. A master pattern to work from comes with the class materials and Sonja makes herself available for questions 4 times a year during each class running session. I will be taking more classes in the future.

On to the meat and potatoes of this post. I have not got very far on my jeans yet but I thought I would give you a few little glimpses of the pattern, layout and front pocket construction.

One challenge with Lutterloh is making sure you have your grain lines in the correct place. The information both in this class and the instructions in Sonya's ebook helped with this.

The pocket construction was not as complicated as one might expect. But let me tell you using the machine needles made for denim really helped. I also purchased a walking foot for the sewing machine and was surprised that it sewed through 5 layers of denim no problem.

Another helpful tip was to use my overcast/edger foot to do my double row of top stitching. It kept the top stitching fairly even. And it was very easy to use my machines needle positions to create the look.

Also following the instructions from the class on making a French seam my front pocket bags look wonderful. I cut the whole pocket from butterfly quilting cotton that my mothers friend gave me for free. Love it. That is all I have to share today. Happy sewing and I will keep this project updated for you.

How Do you Best Learn

2011-02-28T19:54:00.000-08:00

The Sewing Library

How do you best learn? Every year about this time I decide it's time in invest in something new to increase my knowledge of my craft of sewing. My mind starts race should I purchase a new book or DVD. How about a class. Living in the area I do class are pretty much limited to those online at sites like PR or Lutterloh NZ.

Having recently saved 10 yards of denim form my local Goodwill store I've been obsessed with the idea of making a pair of jeans. But were does one begin? Today in the inbox of my email I received ad for Jeans for Real People. The video is 3 hours long and promises a start to finsh look at making a great pair of jeans. Hmm now it's got me thinking just how much info about jean making is too much. Should I buy this video as well as the project on jean making from Lutterloh NZ? Will this video be a one time watch or a great resource to add to the sewing shelf?

So tell me whats your favorite way to learn and grow into a better sewist? Do you have a favorite resource or class?

Denim, Denim and More Denim!

2011-02-06T14:18:00.000-08:00

10 yards of denim was happily rescued by me from the local Goodwill store. Three weeks ago after 3 separate visits I knew it was begging for a home even if it meant sitting in my fabric stash. At the time I had some idea I would try a pair of jeans or two but had no idea that a big part of this springs style watch would be denim. Denim jackets, denim blazers, denim skirts, denim dress and denim pants all in several styles inspired by the '70's and else where. It will be interesting watching the return of the high waisted pant from that era and deciding if it is for me this time around.

Embracing the current spring trend of denim I have decided to attempt to make a new pair of jeans. Or perhaps this resolution comes from the fact that of the 4 pairs of denim in my closet I currently always grab the same pair. And that poor pair of pants has decide most recently to rebel in fit like all of it's brothers and sisters hanging in the closet because they are too tight or refuse to stay up on the tummy. A good pair of jeans is like a good pair of tights and stays where it is suppose to.

To begin this denim adventure I have decided to consult the experts about pants. Out has come Pants For Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto and Making Trousers for Men and Woman by David Page Coffin. My brain is still debating if I should invest in Lutterloh Jeans Making class or tool away on my own until I have my chosen pair perfected.

Do you have a favorite pair of jeans you have made?

Happy Super Bowl everyone. Although I think the Steelers are a good team I would not be a true girl of the green and yellow country with out saying GO PACKERS GO.

Try To Think Spring

2011-02-01T16:46:00.000-08:00

One of this winter worst storms is passing slightly south of us. When I say slightly I mean the worst part of the storm. Both Milwaukee and Chicago areas have started shutting down, and schools not 30 miles away had off today and are already canceling school tomorrow. one local collage today said no class so far. But this is WI and the weather changes by the minute.

One thing I know that is not going to change is that winter will last another 6 weeks at least. So thinking spring is very hard, but wanting to add color to the grey days is a must. So I've come up with the idea that I need to create a late winter/early spring collection. I will be doing the collection as a endless combination style collection where one piece plays off of the last so the each piece can work with 2 or more pieces.

The first idea is to create some color with a palette of denim, orange and brown. Which could work easily through three seasons. Fabric clockwise is dark blue denim, orange double knit, brown print poly woven, orange satin that was permanently wrinkled during washing, cotton lycra knit in upbeat dots, orange rayon blend knit and a brown print rpl knit. Missing would be brown double knit for a pair of pants, skirt and jacket combo.

The second color idea for some reason yells summer to me, and for that reason alone I think I might hold it off. Clockwise aqua bamboo knit, royal blue prl, aqua rib knit, cotton blend satin twill print in white, aqua and royal, charcoal poly blend with royal pin stripe. Whats missing would be a white double knit for a skirt/dress and royal blue double knit for a pants/skirt.

What do you think? Happy sewing.

Winter 6 PAC Completed

2011-01-29T16:39:00.000-08:00

I finally did it. I completed a sew along in the allowed time with out burning out or changing my plan. As some of you may know I have been quietly sewing along with the Six Piece Winter Collection over on Stitcher's Guild. So quietly in fact that I have never posted I was in but mainly kept reading the updates to keep my going. I am excited to say the least. Sewing this super casual winter wardrobe had to main goals. 1. To test how true to fit Lutterloh is for me, and 2. to create a weekend wardrobe that would allow comfort to be at the forefront yet allow me to get up and run to the store if need be. I actually created 7 pieces that work together quiet well.

It all started with piece 1 the winter coat. I want to try my hand at making my own coat and so this unlined fleece version was created to slide over all my weekend ware and keep me warm through the chilly months.

Than came the legging and solid black 3/4 sleeve tunic as pieces 2 and 3. These two pieces can go from sitting on the sofa to a night at dinner with just a change of accessories and shoes. Loving them both.

Pieces 4 and 5 continued along the lines of truly casual workable wardrobe. The short sleeve print tunic can be worn with either the black knit pants or the leggings. It can also be worn with the black tunic as a laying pieces.

In all these 5 pieces alone create several great looks together as well as worn with other items in my wardrobe closet. So needless to say they have been worn alot during my down time.

Now on with the show. Taking some serious looks a

t where I was going with this 6 PAC and some minor fit issues I decided I really wanted to walk away with at least 1 TNT pattern from this collection. I believe I did and that brings us to pieces 6 and 7. They are both made using the Lutterloh supplement 279 # 203. I started with the v neck 3/4 sleeve t-shirt/tunic pattern and made it up in a groovy print that was in my stash. With the help of Easy Sewing The Kwik Sew Way I did the alterations need to make a cardigan.

Pattern Description:

This is a great pattern that includes two great basics. First a 3/4 sleeve v neck knit top and second a pair of pants with a straight leg jean look to them.
Pattern Sizing:
Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?<
Yes the top did. The cardigan looked the way I thought it would.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Lutterloh has no instructions.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
What I like best is that this pattern is a great basic and can be used as a standalone top or a layering piece. The length is perfect for leggings or other pants. The pieces are well drafted and went together quickly and easily.
At this moment maybe only that I don’t understand why Lutterloh always gives the idea/pattern for a neck facing piece. Next time I think I am going to try to make a neck band.

Fabric Used:

The top is a RPL piece from fabric.com
The cardigan is from a piece of knit found at a local thrift shop. The hand of it makes me believe it is a wool blend.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

For both pieces I did a 1/2 narrow shoulder adjustment.

For the cardigan following the directions in Easy Sewing The Kwik-Sew Way I add 3/4 an inch to the pattern front and neck facing piece. And cut both pieces not on a fold. Using the edge the fold line on the original pattern as my straight of grain.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I plan to sew it again. My plan is to play with sleeve and length on this one as I believe it is a TNT or very close to one. Yes this is a great pattern for others. If you understand how to sew a t-shirt a beginner could us this.

Conclusion:

This top and cardigan are great wardrobe builders and can be dressed up or down depending on accessories and fabric choice.

Up next: Is it to early to think spring? or How about some denim pieces to mix in to this winter 6 PAC? What do you think?

Winter 6 Pack Pieces 4 and 5

2011-01-16T21:03:00.000-08:00

A casual winter weekend wardrobe in the only goal I have for my winter six pack. I am rambling along on what seams like an endless combination wardrobe. The only requirement is that it works with at least 2 other pieces and I am happy. Following a long with the other sewist at Sticher's Guild. Three of my completed pieces are posted. You can read about piece 1: the coat and Pieces 2 and 3 : the knit top and the legging. I also have piece 6 completed but that will be in a future post.

This 6 pack has been super fun to complete and I know it will end up with more pieces than my original plan that looks like this.

2 pants/leggings

3 tops (1 solid and 2 print)
1 layering piece
coat

In my head a skirt has been floating around as well as a pair of denim. So we will see. Today for your enjoyment are pieces 4 and 5.

THE KNIT PANTS: are my fourth piece. The are very simple no whistles or fuss elastic waist pants. I want something as comfy as yoga pants but a little more dressy. Lutterloh Supplement 272 #201 fit the bill perfectly and and made up in a nice double knit from fabric.com have allowed them to wash up nicely.

Pattern Description:

Every woman needs a pair of simply comfortable pull on knit pants.
Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lutterloh has no directions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

This pattern was a super simple elastic waist pull on. No extra bells and whistles like pockets to worry about this time around. The best part was how well draft Lutterloh pants patterns are. It went together with no problems. No dislikes at the moment.

Fabric Used:
A double knit bought from fabric.com over a year ago.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

No alterations made this time around other than taking a slightly deeper hem. I am trying to test out how close to fit Lutterloh is for me. I have been very surprised.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I plan to sew this again because it is perfect for weekend wear. Yes this is great even for a beginner. Just make sure to consult your references for best order of construction.

Conclusion:

Great pair of no fuss weekend wear pants.

THE SHORT SLEEVE TUNIC: Still in search of the perfect knit top or at least a second tnt knit top I decide to try Lutterloh Supplement 271 #45. The fabric was rescued from my local thrift shop and is some type of rayon poly knit. I loved the pattern of the fabric and could not pass it up.

Pattern Description:

Color blocked knit top with trim.
Pattern Sizing:
Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
No due to design changes. But looked how I hoped it would.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Lutterloh has no instructions.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I was looking for a knit top that could be developed into a new tnt dartless t-shirt. This top had promise. The pieces are well drafted and go together nicely. Dislike I not happy with the sleeve length and won’t be surprised if I lob them of sometime in the near future. Even for a short sleeve top they hit at a odd place.
Fabric Used:

Some poly/rayon or Lycra knit saved from the local thrift store.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I did not do any of the color blocking as I wanted to be able to show off the print of the knit. Ended up doing 5/8 inch seams instead of the 1/2inch I had marked. Otherwise no changes. This could have used a 1/2 narrow shoulder adjustment but I really want to test out Lutterloh fit with no alterations.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Not sure if I will sew this again. Felt like the top was a bit boxy and until I can think of a way to make the sleeve a little more feminine I think this may be a onetime use. Yes I would recommend it to others.

Conclusion:

The top is a good wardrobe builder. If you would like to read more about how I used it in my winter 6 pack read my

Up next piece six and a brief look at my sewing room/library. Happy sewing.

Piecies 2 and 3 of Winter 6 Pack

2011-01-15T19:06:00.000-08:00

I did quiet a bit of sewing in December just not a whole lot of posting. So bare with me as I try to catch up in the next several posts.

First are two more pieces of my Winter Six Pack (six piece collection). I have been sewing along with my fellow sewist over at Stitcher's Guild who have been working on a six piece winter collection. The original idea is that you are sewing a SWAP but it has been split up in to smaller seasonal collections. This works out great for me as I would like to both fill holes in my collection and lack the attention span to try to sew a larger 12 or more piece SWAP. The formula that is suggest for winter looks like this:

WINTER

Trousers (dark neutral)
2 Tops (1 to match, 1 to complement)
2 layering tops/cardigans/jackets (1 to match, 1 to complement)
Coat (dark netural)

I've changed is slightly and hope mine will look like this:
2 pants/leggings

3 tops (1 solid and 2 print)
1 layering piece

coat

This would be 7 pieces and that's ok because it may grew into more. I did not chose a theme for this collection instead I want each piece to be able to work as a casual weekend wardrobe. But I did not want it to just be sweats. The hope was that each piece could be as casual or dressy as it wanted to be. "Sew" working in a endless combination style I have now completed 5 pieces.

THE COAT : Is Lutterloh supplement 268 #275 that I review here in a previous post.

THE SOLID TOP: is piece 2. It was made from Lutterloh supplement 272 #201. This piece is my last piece of 2010 as it was made over my Christmas break. This top along with the other first five pieces in this collections I made no alterations. I wanted to test how close to fit Lutterloh is and I was very pleased.

Pattern Description:

Knit top with 3/4 sleeves and facing plus matching knit pull on pants.
Pattern Sizing:
Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?<
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Lutterloh has no directions.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This pattern was super simple to put together. The pieces and few markings went together smoothly. Only dislike is I got some puckering in the sleeve cap which was inserted flat method. Not sure if this was an ease issue or a sewing issue.
Fabric Used:
Black slinky knit that’s been in stash for over a year from Wal-Mart.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made no design changes or alterations. I wanted to test how it would work if I did not do pattern surgery. What I discovered is I really need to do a 1/2 inch narrow shoulder alteration.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I would sew this again. Yes I would recommend it to others as it is a good wardrobe builder. Even a beginner can make this top as long as they have a good Idea how a basic t-shirt goes together.
Conclusion:
This is a great little top that is very versatile and can be dressed up and down.

THE LEGGING: is piece 3 of the collection. This pieces was my first piece of 2011 and was completed during my Christmas break on New Years weekend. I was not going to make any leggings but I realized I really like how they look with tunic length tops and they seem to give a more finished look than many skinny jeans do. If I can find the fabric this will be made again as a jegging type garment.

Pattern Description:

This pattern is a knit pant/legging pattern perfect for layering or active wear.
Pattern Sizing:
Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?<
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Lutterloh has no directions
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I want a quick and easy project to start out the New Year. This pattern only has 1 piece and is perfect to make the legging look that works so well with tunic length tops. I have no dislikes.
Fabric Used:
The fabric is a black double knit that came from fabric.com over a year ago.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

All though worried at the start about the negative ease that is found in the waist of this pattern I made know adjustments and it worked out very well.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I would recommend these to others. And Yes I hope to make them again.

Conclusion:

These legging have turned into one of my favorite pieces they are warm and comfy.

A parting shot. Me enjoying making the pattern for piece six. I will review piece 4 and 5 soon. Also a peak at my sewing room/library is coming soon. Tell next time happy sewing.

2010-12-31T21:21:00.000-08:00

HaPpY New Year everyone. Make it a sewing good year.

Merry Christmas

2010-12-25T11:42:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas to you and your family. May the season be filled with peace, love and joy.

MJ Returns

2010-12-13T12:35:00.000-08:00

Moon walk, moon walk, spin squeal and grab the ....... OK so these are the moves my son has perfected for his impromptu Michael Jackson imitations. My son is a total MJ fan. It came as no surprise that he would ask me to make him a jacket to complete his Michael Jackson costume for Halloween 2010 complete with the Lutterloh pattern marked with a post it.

The pattern he chose is Lutterloh Special edition 12 Children's Clothes 69. It was my first time sewing up a children's jacket and the first time since my son was a baby to actually making him a garment. Here is my review.

Pattern Description:

A late sixties early seventies inspired jacket. Buttons at cuff and welt pockets at waist. Original design has a welt pocket at bust level also. This jacket has no color and has darts for shaping.

Pattern Sizing:

This is a Lutterloh children's pattern so chest measurement 72-80 is most suited for this. The explained at the beginning of the publication to chose a style most closely resembling your child’s age.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?<

Yes it looked like the drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

No instructions. I consulted my Singer Sewing Reference Library Tailoring book and A Guide to Fashion Sewing. I also had one male friend take a look at his suit and describe to me what he saw. lol what fun that was.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved the two part sleeve. Lutterloh pieces for the most part go together smoothly. For some odd reason the sleeve caps did not want to fit into the sleeve opening. Not sure if I drafted it daffy or what but my easing was not working at all.

Fabric Used:
Poly/cotton twill charcoal from fabric.com

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I did not line this. We also left of the breast level welt pocket. First time I've done a welt pocket in years. The first one was not the best so we only made two at waist level. We had to do a little trimming at the sleeve cap which caused the sleeve in that area to be a little tight but again I did all my fitting on his sister who is not as wide in the shoulders. Sign next time I will fit on him.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I will sew it again. My son is a huge Michael Jackson fan, and is enjoying his jacket. (Part of his Halloween costume.) I never quite know when he is going to moon walk across the floor.

This pattern is a good pattern and well constructed. Not sure why I had the troubles I did so yes I do recommend it.

Conclusion:

Great little jacket worked great for my son's Michael Jackson costume.

A Winter Coat Piece 1 Of The Winter 6 Pack

2010-11-28T20:42:00.000-08:00

Currently I am trying to sew along with the 6 piece winter collection at Stitcher's Guild. If I get 4 pieces done by the time Pattern Reviews endless combinations contest. is in the final week I will enter. In the past I get side tracked entering contests.

I have been in need of a new winter coat for sometime. So a year ago I started playing with the idea of making one. With McCalls 4975 and some cheap polar fleece from Walmart I was ready to conquer first time coat making. It did not take very long into the project to realize the cheap fleece was cheap because it weave was not smooth in some places it was so thin you could see through it. So McCalls 4975 became a trial run that lost is fizzle and now sits hidden in a closet.

In spring I bought some new polar fleece well it was on sale at Hancock Fabrics. It wasn't the black I wanted but a lovely shade of gray. Who can work on a winter coat well it's warm out side not me. Fall is here and we have had our first snow fall. Thanks giving being a four day weekend seemed like the prefect time to try a coat again. I could not find the pattern for McCalls 4975 must be hiding up there in the closet with the coat. So out came my lutterloh and supplement 268 #275 seamed to fit what I was looking for.

This project went together so nicely. I had never sewn with polar fleece before. I was very scared to try to place any heat on it so my seams are not pressed open as nicely as I would like but I am happy with my new coat.

The Stats On It

3 yards charcoal polar fleece

3 1 inch black buttons with a shank

3 1 inch snaps.

I did not line this one.

My Review

Pattern Description:

This a wonderful princess seamed full cut winter coat that works well with the full figured and/or curvy.

Pattern Sizing:
Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes very much

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Lutterloh has no directions. Used A Guide to Fashion Sewing when to double check what I had planned to do.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love how easy the pieces all fit together. Although I know the coat was cut full I wish it skimmed the body a little more.

Fabric Used:
Polar Fleece. I hate the feel of wool close to my skin. :) Even with a lining I would be itching.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

None really. Gosh have not said that in a long time. I did not line this one and I used snaps instead of attempting button holes on this thick fabric.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I will be my daughter pointed out she did not think it will be warm enough for our winters so I am thinking of making a lined one in faux fur.

Yes this is a great little coat. To get your winter coat making skills started.

Conclusion:

I love my new coat and hope to get lots of wear from it.

Homecoming 2010

2010-10-09T20:08:00.000-07:00

One of the great joys of the high school experience for girls is the adventure of finding the perfect dress. One they hope no one else will have on for all those wonderful social events, dances and balls. The same experience for moms is not quiet so magical as at each store we see 100's of similar dress. 90% of them way to grown up for our little girl. Sigh the tug off war over allowing those little girls to become young women begins.

My oldest daughter learned real fast that often the dress picked up at the store was not what she expected and through her high school years to date has convinced me to make several of her dress. Over summer she laughed as she realized it was these dress that got her complements and peers wondering where her one of a kind gown came from.

With that thought my daughter watched carfully as each new Burda, Lutterloh, Vogue pattern magazine and all their friends came in the door. She often would say that dress would make a great dress for ....... This summer was no different The July issue of Burda Style arrived and my daughter fell in love with Burda Style 07-2010-117 . This Lovely scarf dress fit both of my daughter style ideis of whimsical and ethnic. She is quiet happy with her choice for Homecoming 2010.

Pattern Description:

From Burda Style Unlimited Horizons: Strive for new fashion goals in this comfortable and striking jersey dress. A wide scarf caught in the lower left side seam is draped up over the right shoulder and across the back down to the side seam. What a stunning effect.

Pattern Sizing:
Size 34-42. I resized this up to a 44 for my daughter.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?<
yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
For Burda the instructions were easy enough to follow. Only problem I ran into was attaching the narrow band. My daughter said she didn't like the narrow band any way so we eliminated it from the dress.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This dress fit my daughter's three main style elements simplicity, whimsical and ethnic. When she first saw this dress she knew she wanted it for her homecoming dress.

Our only disappointment came with small pieces of her bra showing and the fact that we could not find red satin jersey to make the dress in. otherwise all smiles.

Fabric Used:
We used a very pretty shade of blue satin jersey rescued from the local Goodwill store.
Total of 3.5 yards.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Had to resize the pattern from a 42 to a 44. Took 1 inch seams. We eliminated the narrow band, and tacked the scarf down in the front. No big alterations were needed.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes this would make a great little black dress. Yes it would be a fun dress to sew again.

Conclusion:
A funny little dress with all the wow power.

1st Blog Aniversary

2010-08-09T14:52:00.000-07:00

One year ago on August 8 2009 I started this blog to journal the blooming I saw going on in my wardrobe. With 23 blogs under my belt I don't think I'm doing so badly. But I also see a few changes and fall aways did happen. I started out measuring the approximate cost of the garment I was making. this was for budget purposes as well as to answer the question a friend asked if I felt I was really saving. The second fall away happened during a swap contest. I was content with trying not to purchase anything all year only but hit a creative road block so my mom bought me some clothes. I was unwilling to stop my spending on me or my kids, and I end up sewing less. Gosh that's not good

I re looked at what I'm doing. What I find important to blog about and if I have any current goals. First and foremost my blog is still and always will be primarily a journal about sewing, fashion, and reading. Secondly My first goal is to work toward finding styles that fit my body and my body type. So I will continue the route of creating TNT patterns. So more work and practice with fit are in this years plan. Two great sites to learn more about your body type are Inside Out Style and My Virtual Makeover.

Secondly I would again like to challenge my consumerism and make the majority of my clothes this year. So here is my plan Only unmentionable (undergarments, socks, tights spanx etc) can be bought new along with the occasional wow item and shoes. So I'm setting a budget of $15.00 per month for RTW which is allowed to carry over month to month. I am allowed to spend no more than $15.00 per month thrifting for sweaters, accessories and few hole filling items. My sewing budget I'm going to allow $40.00 per month this should cover fabric, notions and patterns. Note here it does not include renewing subscription to Burda or purchasing supplements for the Lutterloh as both of these come out of gift money. So that means my monthly clothing budget is $70.00. That's actually what it was set at last year but by the end of the year I found I had spent more than twice as much. It's funny because I seldom wear some of the budget busting pieces I had to have. Sigh time to get better focused.

Ok enough rambling on and on. Time for some sewing. I currently working on a lutterloh jacket. It is 92 in the 2009 lutterloh or 92 in supplement 270. Great little short sleeve zipper front jacket in woven. Until next time happy sewing. I'm so glad your on this journey with me.

I Didn't Sign Up for Jodhpurs!!!!

2010-08-06T12:07:00.000-07:00

Muslin 1 Lutterloh 2009-91

I finally finished my first Lutterloh pants. Can I say I love how nicely the pattern pieces all fit together. I hate trying to buy pants. Being a rectangle or O body shape I usually have to buy pants for my waist and than take them home and take them in at the hip. Not the worst alteration but still work. Lately even the pants that are made per body type have not worked. Main problem is after a few hours of wear they fall off because they have stretched to fit my curves. sigh......So here is where trying to create a hand full of TNT pant patterns come in.

My first Lutterloh pant pattern is 2009 -91. It a very simple basic straight leg trouser pattern. But my muslin proved it was going to need some fitting work. So with some smooth music provided by my friend D~ I set off to fit these pants. I love them so far. They fit me well and yes they don't fall off.

muslin 2

Below is my review of them from PR you can see more pictures at my Flickr.

Pattern Description:

Straight leg trouser that sits at or slightly below your waist. These trousers feature a side zipper, no pockets and darted front and back. You can see the image on Lutterloh site.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh uses you bust and hip measurement. Since these are pants it only uses your hip measurement.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Close enough.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lutterloh has no directions. You will need to create a plan. I strongly suggest having and using sewing manuals when stuck. Or any good pant pattern directions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

My likes hum…..It has a nice simple line but is very dressy so business appropriate for my jobs. Can easily dress these up or down depending on the seen

Dislike this pattern is very hippy. It was clearly designed for a pretty pear or a hourglass. But not a rectangle or an O without a lot of alterations. On me the originals looked similar to jodhpurs. lol

Fabric Used:

Muslin 1- cotton muslin fabric.

Muslin 2- This was supposed to be wearable. Poly, Rayon. And lycra from fabric.com

Try number 3-Poly rayon and lycra suiting from Hancock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

All the alterations I did are typical of me and my pants fitting.

sigh my very nice fitting Lutterloh 2009-91

Using Fast Fit I did a big tummy skinny leg alteration to add nearly 12 inches to the waist area. I moved front and back dart 1 inch. Per Pants for Real People I shorten the pants 4 inches. Realized after first pattern fitting need to do a flat derriere alteration of ¾inch.

Upon completion of second muslin I realized I still had add way too much room. I took ¼” of the side seems and still had wings at my hips Sigh….

The third pair I did a narrow hip adjustment per Fitting & Pattern Alteration A Multi-Method Approach . The method I used was slide and pivot and took out 1.25 inches from each side seam tapering up to the waist.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes I will be sewing these again. Yes I would recommend just make sure you take the time to fit them.

Conclusion:

A nice pair of basic side zip pants for work or play.

Lutterloh 2009-91 paired up with Butterick 5100

I'm Big, I'm Beautiful and I'm not bashful about it!

2010-07-30T11:30:00.000-07:00

Style and Company at Macy's

Warning this is a rant blog. Please forgive me I'm sick of the whole weight issue in America.

"Fifty Years ago, the fashionable American woman was size 16 going on size 18. Today she is size 12 going on size 10. Tables of statistics have made her health conscious. Mass media have made her youth conscious. Size has become a status symbol." ~ Adele P. Margolis 1969 from How to Make Clothes that Fit and Flatter

Those same statistics, media messages and society pressures are still present toady. Some times so much I want to scream stop please and lets instead except everyone as they are. Size really does not matter but living a health lifestyle does. It's interesting to me when media tries to get it right how quick the haters come out to continue pushing the pressure on any group of people that do not fit into what they presume to be the correct way. For large woman the number one criticism is get up off your tail and do something. The number two criticism is well if you wear something that flatters you you'll look better.

I want to look at both of these criticism in short so if I get ranty for give me.

Me made

If you wear something that flatters you you'll look better

Who determines what the current look or trend is? The fashion industry of course. RTW has for a long time over looked the plus size market. Either down sizing or limiting styles to plus size woman. The few stores that cater to nearly half of the adult female population like every one else move up and down with the economy. But often as a plus size woman we don't understand how the fashion industry works. Recently NYT put out an article that attempts to explain the problem. See the link here. Pattern Reviews very own Kathleen Fasanella was quoted in the article. She further explains her quotes on PR in this discussion of the article. It's funny how and industry that should be helping solve the problem also seems to be the cause. As mentioned before I work in a shop as my second job. I see woman who have been told for years wear something baggy and it covers your bumps, lumps and other things. They don't understand or are too conscious when told that outfits that skim the body actually make you look thinner and feel better. Those who have embraced wearing the correct foundations, finding a good seamstress for alterations and only buying what really fits and flatters them are some of the most fashionable women in town no matter what size. For me and many of my fellow sewist we have found a way to limit the problems for our own unique bodies and that is to create wonderful garments for our self. Yes some times we create a wader but there are alot more winners the better we get with knowing our body. The funny thing to me is that the problem of what to wear is not just limited to the plus size market but to womens clothing in general. My youngest daughter is a size 00 an we have a hard time finding things to work for her too. So the next time you see a friend, stranger, or co-work dressed to the nine tell her you love her look she probable spent hours looking for or making that great outfit.

Get up off your tail and do something!

"I'm a size 20 who just finished dance teacher training.. six hours of dancing and yoga a day for 10 days. I wonder how many of the people posting nasty comments could keep up?" BoredNowPhillyJuly 29th, 20102:56 pm Comment from the NYT article above.

Lane Bryant top and thrifted pants 2005

Let make it clear not every plus size woman is large because they eat wrong, are lazy, don't exercise or are poor. Recently when I was watching CNN they interviewed a former Secretary of health who made it quiet clear that the current science of things can and does have extremely health people being categorized as obese and overweight. I've often told well meaning friends, relatives and students I really don't loss weight. Only twice since graduating high school have I been less than a size 14. The first time they discovered that I was a diabetic. Being put on food plans, exercise plans and medicine plans brought my weight up to higher than what it currently is. The second time was five years ago well I was on what I call the "divorce diet". Again once the stress of things was off my body the weight came back. Today I focus more on just living a healthy life style making sure my body stays on the strict food plan, walking 2 to 6 miles every day, having enough sleep and just trying my best to be active. I'm a much happier person today because of it.

It saddens me to see woman who have been dieting and exercising for years hating them self because they cant fit into the model that is so often thrown at us. I often tell these women buy your self a new outfit and enjoy life you might just be at "your perfect" weight. I found it interesting that this study shows that overweight elderly live up to 10 years longer than their thin counterparts. I'm not and advocate for fat or for thin. I do believe we all need to live has healthy as we can.

I'm done ranting and will be back to sewing. Still working on Lutterloh pants. My friend D~ was nice enough to provide me with a playlist (music) the other day so I could do surgery on the pattern. Today I will be making a muslin.

My First Lutterloh Blouse

2010-07-26T19:03:00.000-07:00

Lutterloh 2009 19 or Supplement 273 19

and Burda Plus Fashion spring/summer 2008

(E 985) 405 skirt.

This weekend I got a chance to play with my new Lutterloh System. Let me start out by saying love this system. I went into it totally knowing I would have to make all or most of my usual alterations. But since I have not made a button down blouse that fits me in years I figured it would be a good way to test a garment with the lutterloh. So in essence this is a very nice wearable test garment that will come in handy this fall. I carefully planned and prepared how I would put this garment together since Lutterloh has no directions. My copy of A Guide to Fashion Sewing by Connie Amaden-Crawford was consulted briefly. Over all I am pleased with this blouse. There are a few fitting issues I will be playing with any suggestions are welcome.

Anyway here is the review I posted on PR. I plan to use this as a layering piece this fall.

Pattern Description:

Easy summer sleeveless blouse with self facing and no collar.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Lutterloh has no directions. Used A Guide to Fashion Sewing when to double check what I had planned to do.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I had been looking for an easy transitional (summer to fall or spring to summer) piece that could be layered but dress enough to wear alone. This sleeveless blouse seems to fit my lifestyle.

Don't really have a dislike yet.

Fabric Used:
This is a poly crepe or a poly-rayon crepe I saved from Goodwill $1.99 for 5 yards.
Sorry did not do a burn test so fabric suggestions based on feel test.
I used about 1.5 to 2 yards of fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I made my usual list of blouse alterations. 2.5 FBA, Moved dart up 1/2 inch. (FFRP) Narrow shoulder adjustment 1/2 inch (Pattern Fitting with Confidence) Removed all back darts need the room for my thick stomach. In the end I had add to much room and had to take out 3/4 inch from each seem and lengthen dart 1 inch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I will be making this again. Want to work a bit on the fit. Yes I would recommend this for others. Beginners need to make sure they have made a blouse before.

Conclusion:

Great little layering piece.

Burda Style 06-2010-122

2010-07-24T16:44:00.000-07:00

Well my daughter graciously allowed me to take a few quick preview shots of her in her new dress. I had to promise not to publish to Facebook where her friends might see. LOL I'm sure there were a few reasons but the first and foremost one was she plans to use this dress this year for senior pictures. So I ask you to please ignore the lack of beautifying she plans to do before the real picture is taken.

What you need to know is that my daughter has been greedily eyeing the June 2010 issue of Burda Style magazine. Many of the styles in it called out to her whimsical/bohemian heart. This one came with a mom do you think an eyelet dress would look good on me. Needless to say that on one of my trips to fabric hunting (searching for a bargain) I saw this red tag eyelet at Joannes for 50% off which does not happen to often at Joanne's. After a quick call and trip home daughter took a look at it and declared this was it. The fabric was polyester but very thin and light weight so perfect for what she wanted. Thin wasn't the word sheer would have better matched it. By the time we left the start daughter realized that yes I would sew this dress but it must be lined.

My daughter has been collecting accessories to go with this dress for her pictures. Today she found a shell necklace that she plans to wear and would not let me photo. Below is my review from PR.

Pattern Description:

From Burda Style Relax on the beach in this loose-fitting dress with practical pockets and pretty lace trim.

Pattern Sizing:

38, 40, 42, 44, 46. My dd took a straight 46

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Typical of Burda magazine but yes you can follow them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

My dd had marked this dress from the beginning because it looked fun and carefree. That fits very well into her whimsical/bohemian style.

No dislikes yet. But she could not understand why pockets.

Fabric Used:

Polyester eyelet and lace hemming type from Joanne Fabrics

Polyester batiste for the lining from my stash

Both of these fabrics ravel badly.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

We left off the pockets and belt made from self fabric. I also lined the dress since the eyelet was very light and very see through.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Have a feeling this maybe made again but this copy my daughter plans to use for her senior pictures.

Yes this was a super simple and stylish summer dress.

Conclusion:

A wonderful easy breezy summer dress.

Next up my first Lutterloh, Lutterloh 2009-19. What girl doesn't want a sleeveless shirt for under jackets and cardigans.

The story of a TNT top.

2010-07-21T20:07:00.000-07:00

Once upon a time there was a fashionista who long to find clothes that fit. She searched high and she searched low but RTW often lacked quality and really lacked styles that she was comfortable in.

She relized very quickly that covering her spare tire and lovely twins was hard work. This or that friend offered advice or suggest this store or that. But still a huge struggle of a a possitive self image seemed to follow each shopping trip.

So as a young teen our fashionista began to learn to sew and tailor. The classes at school were good. She finally had some clothes that fit and that she loved. She dreamed of someday moving to NYC and being a famous designer. But art school did not happen insted 5 little happy peas decided to pop out of their pods and jump around like happy little hot peppers. So our fashionista traded in her fashion for motherhood and happily sewed little baby rompers and kids clothes.

Anyone who loves fashion knows that if the feel of the fabric or the smell of a new garment are left dormant too long the frump frump land can appear often in young mothers. And so it did.

Fashion blood runs deep and soon our young mother found herself working at a shop. A shop that required she dress nice in current season and colors. The fit issues with the RTW started again. But not to be fooled and not to be satisfied our now single mother put on the smock of a sewist. Armed with fitting books, sewing books and tapes, patterns and piles of fabric stash and good sewing friends on PR and blogs she set out to find a TNT.

A TNT she did find in McCalls 5977. The first picture of our sewist is view A. Our second picture is view A played with. Folowing the directions found in Make Your Own Dress Patterns the darts have been rotated to the neckline and the pleated bib left off. The third picture was an experiment of more pattern manipulation following some great ideas in Make Your Own Patterns. All three pieces are part of the pink lipstick collect.

The smile on her face is one of gratitude. She is "sew" happy to have found great inspiration in fellow sewist and ametur designers. To have found out the power of a TNT and pattern manipulation, and the grace of God not to let her give up.

Until next time she is busy working on Burda Style 6-2010-122 for her daughter who really wanted a eyelet dress.

Thrift Store Finds and Eye Candy

2010-07-17T10:16:00.000-07:00

Being a single mom I don't just sew because it relaxing but also it's a way for me to stretch the every tight budget. Another way for me to stretch that budget is to thrift. It's great fun when my youngest daughter can find a out fit or two for and absurdly low price of like $10.00 and look completely in fashion. But if I can find some great deals to add to the sewing room I always come home jolly.

This week was one of those weeks. The picture to the left are this weeks thrift store finds. Six plus yards of brown print charmeuse perfect for lining pants, jackets or skirts this fall. Two yards of blue print poly knit and three yards of brown & red print poly knit great for making tops for work. All ten plus yards cost me a $1.05. I couldn't be more happy to rescued them from my look thrift store even if all they become is messy copies for some upcoming project. It still was an excellent deal. The new tailors ham comes at the best time too since my current one was getting really flat.

The mail man was kind enough to bring me some eye candy as well. I've owned several pattern making systems in the past. Usually with mixed results. So when I was going through my divorce I sold them and never looked back.

Three or four years back I started sewing again. It was a great way to relax and challenge the old brain. With the want and need to sew also came the want and need to learn to be a better seamstress.

I had never heard of fitting back in home ec classes in high school. I do remember my teaches pushing me to learn more about tailoring by working co-op at a men's store which I refused to do. They also pushed me to take a fitting class with a company that was coming into town to sell its product again I politely reused.

Back in high school I wanted to be a designer not a seamstress. So if it wasn't going to help me get into design school I didn't want to do it. LOL if I only knew then that I wouldn't go on to design school but instead get a degree in Marketing and Fashion Merchandising and get married and start a family. Maybe I would not have been so stubborn.

Well my mom decided to give me and early gift, and for my birthday I decided to invest in that system that 20+ years ago my home ec teachers where pushing me towards. I've studied it alot and know most people have a love hate relationship with their Lutterloh. Yet I'm sure this was a good move for me at the time. I love my BurdaStyle Magazines but I dislike the tracing, up sizing or down sizing to fit my two dd and me. With the Lutterloh I should be able to draft of a pattern closer to the size I need to start a project. So when I figured out to get started with Lutterloh I would get 280 patterns I jumped for it. I could never buy that many patterns from the big 4 or Burda for the price of Lutterloh.

I'm looking forward to starting a new adventure with the Lutterloh. Burda and my other friends will not be left behind because ever good seamstress realizes a pattern is just a tool to get started on making the fashion dream come true.

Up next still playing with McCall's 5977

The Beginning of Pink Lipstick Collection M5977

2010-06-28T14:11:00.000-07:00

Pink blouse made by me M5977 polyester jersey (trifted)

White crops Burda Plus Fashion Spring/Summer 2009 410/411 Hybred 100% cotton denim Hancock (TNT pattern)

White skirt Burda Style 3-10-136 100% cotton denim Hancock
Pink purse Prada (thrifted most likely imitation.)
White sandals Predictions at Payless
Wood bead braclet by my daughter. Thanks baby.

I always wanted to do that. LOL. Ok introducing my lipstick collection. The main focus colors in this collection are white and the bright pink. I love this pink color and a million years ago when I was back in high school I wore a shade of lipstick or lip gloss this exact shade. When I think about it my blush used as eye shadow back than was close too. So imagine my joy when I discovered that I had several pieces of fabric sitting in my stash or waiting patiently in my Fabric.com cart. Our the greed in my eyes when upon entering Joann fabric I found the perfect dotted jersey with this color . Yeah, girl gots it bad. But really the orange and white theme was not working for me.

The crop pants are made up in a white 100% cotton in my favorite tnt crop pattern. I was worried since the pants have no spandex or lycra I would have a problem whit comfort. No problem here, the cotton denim stretches nicely well wearing and comes back to shape in the wash. Because this is a tnt pattern not reviewing them again on PR but you can read an older review about the pattern here. I did not make this pair any different than I did the pink pair from last summer.

The denim skirt, Burda Style 3-10-136 I spoke about in a past blog and still love it. I will be using this pattern again shortly.

Pattern Description:

Now on with the show. The pink blouse is McCalls 5977 view A. This pattern is described by McCalls as being a pullover top having neck and armhole bindings and stitched hem, Top A has to layers of pleated ruffles.

Pattern Sizing:

A5(6-8-10-12-14) EE(14-16-18-20) I started with an 18

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes instructions were good. a Beginner could use them with little help.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

This is a top that is in trend right now but is classic enough to add a little fun in years to come. I'll be truth worthy I want to see if I could try the little ruffle thing.

No huge dislikes.

Fabric Used:

Fabric called for lightweight fabric like crepe de dhine, challis, charmeuse, cotton blend, bastiste and double georgette.

Fabric I used to rebel is an nice Matted Jersey rescued from Goodwill.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Oh dear not a ton but I did have to change things up a bit. First I used a knit fabric. My Matted Jersey was screaming to be made into this blouse. I need to make a narrow shoulder alteration of about 1/2" add 3/8" to the bust and 1/8" to the waist as suggested in Pattern Fitting with Confidence. Upon a paper fit I realized I need to move down the dart 1/2", so out came my Fit for Real People to help get it done. In my test garment I learned that the hem and arm holes stretched. Knowing I need to stabilize the hem I used the interfacing trick found in Easy Guide to Sewing. Luckily I did not need to do a gapping armhole adjustment.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I think this is a well fitting pattern well on its way to becoming a TNT. I can't wait to practice some dart manipulations on this pattern.

Yes this is a great wardrobe builder easy enough for a beginner.

Conclusion:

I love this little top and have several plans for additions from this pattern. Joy of all joys my bra straps don’t show, What an add feature.

Penguin in Pink.......maybe

2010-06-21T12:40:00.000-07:00

Well for the fun of it (read work avoidance) I took this test. I find most of these types of test funny and hold little truth to the person. Interestingly enough though this test picked picked my favorite bird as being my match. Hum some interesting stuff there. And it certainly explains why my sloppy Copy 2 of m5977 is still laying in a bright pink heep on my sewing table. Time to get serious and get working instead of reading every blog know to man (work avoidance). So my current goal finish m5977 this week get it photoed and published.

Time to get back to work. I thought you might want to read about the Penguin.

Now you see it, now you don't. Aggressive yet gentle, outgoing but shy, stable yet flighty - everyone sees the penguin in a different way. It's that black and white thing: the penguin only reveals the side that it wants to you to see. So whether you like this darling-devil or not, you have to concede that it's a fascinating and enigmatic individual.

Penguins are birds condemned to live out their days on the ground. Unable to fly, their excess energy has no outlet save their creative talents and emotional outbursts. Penguins are poetic, artistic, and intellectually gifted, and as writers penguins have no equal.

But, if unable to channel their impulses in a positive way, the resulting turmoil proves damaging to their relationships and careers.

Penguins are deceptively intelligent and are particularly animated when intellectually challenged. They excel at word games and puzzles but are modest about their abilities and are generally underestimated by others.

With their misunderstood personality, penguins find writing an ideal tool for expressing their true feelings. They have a natural aptitude for languages and penguin personalities dominate the world of publishing as writers, editors, and journalists.

With a natural aptitude for languages, penguin personalities dominate the world of publishing as writers, editors and journalists. A strong sense of drama draws them to the theater and cinema, although unlike typical bird personalities they avoid the spotlight unless they're able to hide behind the characters they play. Once on stage however, they prove to be excellent performers with their multifaceted personalities conveying the full gamut of emotions.

However, a lack of confidence affects their work. Penguins tend to give up on tasks they were otherwise capable of and are often disappointed with their performance. Still, work never dominates their life and they always put their family first.

Happy sewing!!

I Page From My Journal (sewing related)

2010-06-16T19:23:00.000-07:00

A few nights ago I was reading Ten Thousand Hours of Sewing blog spot. I was very interested in the theory that if you spend 10,000 hours truly learning and working hard at anything you will become a master at it. I decide I was up for the challenge at trying this with my sewing and seeing if I improve of sit quietly at a plateau. So Victoria thank you for laying out a great plan. I hope you don't mind I'm borrowing from your idea.

Tonight I find myself doing sewing related activities not sewing. Yeah it's because I finished sloppy copy 1 of M5977. I found myself revisiting the idea that the pleated bib is not the best look for my big 40F size boobs. ( Picture posted later.) What is a girl to do because I intend to get this pattern fitting correctly maybe san the bib. So sloppy copy #2 fabric and a few other floating pieces of fabric are in the washer and dryer and I’m pouring over books relooking at the issue at hand so what can a H or slightly O shaped person wear? Too often I feel my style and choices are so simple with no edge. The books out in front of me are. Fashion for Dummies, InStyle Secrets of Style, Nothing to Wear, Easy Guide to Sewing and The Vogue Sewing Book (1975 copyright) I have also visited a great website Inside Out Style.

So what do you think? Does a large busted H (rectangular) or O have the right to wear pleating on the bust.

Sewing and Books

2010-05-21T13:42:00.000-07:00

For a long time I could not figure out how to combined my two passions. I'm in love with collecting good books just about as much as I enjoy playing with fabric and creating a new garment. I girl needs insperation. Why not take it from a book.

Several years ago I sold most of my sewing books. In the last 12 months I started to slowly rebuilding that collection. I'm going to try to review the books I most enjoy or use one at a time. You will also see me note the books I used as a reference when I sew.

First up is the Weekend Sewer's Guide to Pants and Skirts. I love this book. It was a wonderful trip down memory lane and was packed full of time saving ideas. The garments are dated but there are a few gems to grab on to and try. The invisable tummy slimmer is one of those great ideas that a home sewist can use. Totally takes the mystery out of all the RTW secret slimmers in pants. Any way her is my review of the book.

Book Index/Chapter headings
Introduction
GET READY...With a Perfect Fit for You, and Your Lifestyle
GET SET...With Some Creative Inspiration
GET READY...GET SET...SEW!
THE PANTS AND SKIRTS
About the designers
Acknowledgments
Glossary
Index

Paper Back or Hard Bound?
Hard Bound I have the 1998 edition
Does this book have clear illustrations or photographs?
Yes both. It’s a very nice trip down memory lane.

Would you recommend this book as a MUST HAVE?

It would depend. If you’re looking for a book with tons of update fitting and design ideas. This is not the book for you. If you’re looking for a book with ideas on how to plan your sewing, a little history about clothing, like where did blue jeans come from, and some older ideas that work today for example adding a tummy slimmer. Than this is a great book for you. Personally I read this book much like I would a novel. Had a lot of trips down memory lane and some real neat light bulb moments. Will be incorporating a few ideas into my own sewing.

Just about done with a white denim version on my TNT crop pant pattern Burda Plus Spring/Summer 2009-411. These crops are piece 3 in my intial 4 piece spring/summer collection in orange and white.

Up next might be McCall's M5977 view A in orange interlock. Will have to wait and see.

Happy sewing!!

First Outfit of Spring

2010-04-27T19:15:00.000-07:00

Well here it is the first outfit of my spring sew season. I started these two peices to be part of Pattern Review Mini Wardrobe competiton. All though I did not complete the 4 pieces of the competiton I did get a good start on my spring summer wardrobe with these 2 pieces.

The first piece is Burda Plus Fashion 02-2010-410. This tunic hip length tunic can be made in a woven or in a knit. I chose to make mine in a stretch jersey knit with orange and teal dots on it from http://www.fabric.com/. I'm loving how carefree it is but I'm not liking the fact that it makes me look pregnant which I am not. you can read my review of the pattern here on PR. I used some new idea/techniques on this top that I learned from some books in my sewing library. The titles of the two books are The Stretch and Sew Guide to Sewing Knits by Ann Parson and Easy Guide to Sewing by Lynn MacIntyre and Marcy Tilton. I will most like make this top again in a solid color because I really would like to try to create a casing that would make the drawstring go completely around you body instead of resting on your back and gathering all in the front.

The second piece is Burda Style 03-2010-136. This is a wonderful lined pencil skirt with real neat front darts that come off the side seam. Just what my belly needed. Ah! I can not tell you how comfortable this skirt is. This was the first time I lined a skirt. Let me just say every skirt I make will have a lining. Being a rectangle type of body I just want to say pencil skirts look so great on us. I believe O shapes/apples would look great in a pencill skirt too. It's all about the legs baby. I made this skirt out of some 100 % cotton white denim from Hancock Fabrics. Just can't tell you how great this denim was to sew. And did I mention the china silk polyester lining from Fabric.com. Yeally enjoyed this project it went together so well. I did have to shorten this skirt about 4 inches and add about 2 inches to each seam to the waist make it work. Resources I used to help make this skirt; for the kick pleat I consulted Easy Guide to Sewing by Lynn MacIntyre and Marcy Tilton. For the waist I used Nancy Zieman's Pattern Fitting with Confidence. Did I mention that I put 1/4 inch elastic in the seam of the waist band so it could expand and shrink with me a little. You can read the review here on PR.

My hope is to complete the 4 pieces I had planned for the PR mini wardrobe compatition and ad two more pieces to it so it is more like a Stitcher's Guide Summer six pack (six piece summer sew-along). My theme colors are still orange and white for this collection. Next up is a pair of white denim crops from my tnt pattern, Burda Plus Fashion 02-2009-411. Happy sewing.

How Do You Plan

2010-04-17T11:16:00.000-07:00

Well mini wardrobe competition is done on PR. Like usual I ran out of time. Good thing I got two items complete and did not lose my sewing mojo. My completed items are Burda Plus Fashion spring/summer 2010- 410, which is a tunic, and Burda Style 3-10-136, a pencil skirt. I love both pieces and will photo and review them soon.

Today's temperature is not going to be above 60. I was perplexed at how hard it is to figure out what to wear for days like this. I'm sick of sweater, pants and many other RTW clothing hanging in my closet. I realized the majority of the clothes I have made are for summer and I have very few items that are for spring. So out came two of my favorite pieces (see picture). They are my favorite Khaliah Ali drawstring pants, S5074 and my favorite t-shirt B5398. Some how the two worked for my casual look of the day and I'm content and comfortable with my choice.

Back to the question how do you plan your wardrobe, SWAP or mini wardrobe? With two jobs at what seems like opposite ends of the trend pool answering this question can be difficult for me. With a degree in fashion merchandising and many years of retail behind me I'm ashamed to admit every year I buy new books on wardrobe planning. Currently on my shelf I have Nothing to Wear, Instyles Secrets of Style and Fashion for Dummies just to name a few. But it seems some how I still lack the skills needed to build a wardrobe that is functional and comfortable all year around. So I've decide that my sewing and fabric buying needs to take a more planned approach. Instead of just plopping out individual items I will be creating mini collections of 4 to 6 pieces that all relate and work together. Instead of trying to make all the items fit both jobs I will try to center each collection on one job. A few pieces might be able to cross over and that's great. Most of all I'm not going to get mad because I have to add a few RTW pieces. I know I don't have the time to create everything. Instead of worrying if I'm in trend or on point with the outfit I'm going to work on comfort and fit. Not sure if I'll every break the addiction to new fabric but hopefully holding onto some type of plan will help.

So what is your plan? How do you decide what to sew or buy?

Spring is in the air and so is.....

2010-03-07T15:35:00.000-08:00

Spring is in the air and so is PR's Mini Wardrobe Contest. This years contest runs 3-16-10 to 4-15-10. The goal is to create 4 pieces that can create 4 distinct outfits. Every year I look forward to these competitions and every year I seem to lose my sewing mojo once I enter them. This year I'm hoping to trick my mind and not enter until I have at least 3 of the 4 required pieces finished. All week I searched my Burdas and switched my fabric stash baskets from fall/winter fabric and colors to spring/summer fabric and colors. Did not have quite all I wanted so fabric.com and my local Hancock have been searched for white denim and a fun colorful print. Today I spent the day playing with my Burda line drawings. It was fun playing paper dolls. I have more than 4 patterns I'm playing with so I will need to narrow it down. The goal was to create some funny and some serious looks. Below and above are a few combinations I created and laughed about. This weeks goal is to pick my 4 patterns, trace and paper fit them, and prepare my fabrics for the contest. So excited.

M5881 Has hit the .....

2010-02-12T20:38:00.000-08:00

Well it's official I have tossed my daughters Spree dance dress. M5881. It was not a difficult project just not very motivating. Daughter didn't even take the time to try on the dress well I was working on it. Tonight, the day before the big dance, I finished it up and she tried it on. To say it was a little disappointing and didn't quite fit correctly would fit the bill. Promised Daughter we will try the dress again hopefully for prom of this year. On to the next project. Not sure what it is yet.

B5398 Has Me Purring

2010-01-24T14:00:00.000-08:00

Butterick 5398 has me as happy and content as a purring cat. This top is the second piece in my Persian Leopard Collection. Thinking this may become a TNT top that I will make over and over again. It not as playful as my dress in this collection is, but I'm excited about it.

Pattern Description:
Misses' jacket, top, dresses, skirt, pants and scarf. This is a knit lifestyle wardrobe.
I made view B a close fitting top.

Pattern Sizing:
XS-XXL. I made a mix of the L and XL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes simple enough. I did not really find any fault with them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Can you say bust darts with me? I was so happy to find a top that could be used as a t-shirt or a tunic top that had the bust darts.

I have not found something I really didn't like yet with this pattern.

Fabric Used:
I used leopard printed jersey from Hancock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
In my attempt to cheat having to make a FBA I instead used a L at the shoulders, XL at the bust and waist and back to a L at the hips. This seems to work well with my rectangle body. So no FBA on this one.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I think I may have found a TNT T-shirt top. Yes I think this is a good pattern for others.

Conclusion:
I love this new knit top that I left at a tunic length. This will be my new TNT t-shirt top. It is also the second piece to my Persian Leopard collection.

Next up
M5881. My daughter is in need of a dress for her Spree dance coming up in Febuary.

Sew It Begins

2010-01-17T09:14:00.000-08:00

So the birth of a new collection begins. I was unable to finish my PR SWAP and instead took a short break from sewing. I am back. What you see here is the beginning of a new collection called the Persian Leopard Collection. This will be a mini wardrobe that will reflect the fun playful walk on the wild side of me.
This great dress is Butterick 5415.

Pattern Description:
Close-fitting dress with front darts and back zipper. This dress offers 3/4 sleeves variations of necklines and contrasting bands.

Pattern Sizing:
XS-XXL I used a combination or L and XL
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes with exception of changes I made.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. This is a very easy pattern great of a beginner or advanced beginner.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
What I liked is that it was a simple style that tends to look very good on the rectangular body type. The style is a classic and can be found often it RTW. What I didn't like why a zipper in a knit?
Fabric Used:
Cotton Jersey from Hancock.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made view C. Well let’s see I traced my pattern shoulders, arm holes and bust in a size L and waist and hips in a sixe XL. I ended up not needing all the room in waist area and took it in 2 inches. I decided I did not like the contrasting bands so instead add gray and black ribbon to the neckline. I also shortened the length about 5 inches.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I'm hoping to turn this into TNT. Yes I think it a great pattern.
Conclusion:
Ok this is the beginning of my Persian Leopard Collection. My hopes are this mini wardrobe will be fun and a little bit of a walk on the wild side of me.

Next up is B5398 Top B

This week my local Goodwill had some great finds. I was able to purchase a copy of The Vogue Sewing Book Copyright 1975. Has a lot of grat info about line, color, proportion and styles that work. I was also able to score a copy of The Stretch and Sew Guide to Sewing On Knits. Book review will come soon.

Homecoming 2009 and SWAP update

2009-10-29T19:54:00.000-07:00

It's been some time since my last post. My sewing has just about come to a stand still. Seems to be my curse every time I start a SWAP the sewing muse leaves me. lol Any way SWAP update I have finished BWOF 4-2009-134 and S2948. The pants and cami turned out well. Once I have one whole outfit done I will post pictures. The Butterick 4985 blouse became a wadder. I've decided for now I'll stick to knit and non-button front tops for a bit. My mom being the great mom she is decided to try to jump start my sewing again. She purchasing me some fall clothes. Thank you mom. Nothing like a few new RTW outfit to remind me why I like to sew.

Once again my oldest daughter asked for a just right dress for Homecoming. Months ago when my burnt orange satin knit arrived from fabric.com my daughter asked if she could have it. I told her not a chance. Little did I know that one of the many great sewers on PR would recommend B5383 to someone for s special Officers Ball. I saw the pattern and showed it to my daughter who remembered the orange fabric. B5383 had just enough youth mixed with the classy look my daughter was hoping and looking for. My daughter does not wear a lot of color so the fact that she wanted an orange dress to begin with was daring for her. The complements she got I'm hopping encourage her to wear some more color. We have 2 or 3 more formals this year.

Pattern Description:
This is a Maggy London Dress. This is a close-fitting tapered dress with side zipper and side front gathers. It has above or below the knee options. The bodice stay is lined.
Pattern Sizing:
AA (6-8-10-12) EE (14-16-18-20) we used an 18

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes except my version you cannot see the side gathers.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes the directions where easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This dress is very versatile. It can be dolled up in many ways because of it’s a classy cut. Worked perfect for my high school but would be perfect for someone of an older and wise age as well.
The one feature that I most want to show was the side gathers. They did not show in our fabric at all. Next time I will correct that.

Fabric Used:
Burnt orange satin knit from fabric.com

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
We shortened it about 3 inches, and omitted the zipper.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes already have a winter formal version rolling around in the brain. Yes I would recommend it.

Conclusion:
This was a great dress. Great for an advanced beginner or intermediate sewer. For my daughter it turned out to be a positive way to try a new color.

Up Next:

On my cutting table is Simplicity S2948, part of the Khaliah Ali Collection. I will be making the jacket and a cami.

August Review and New Look At SWAP 2009

2009-09-06T14:29:00.000-07:00

August was a sad sewing month for me. It was a month of trying Several muslin and ending up with more wadders than I would like. The below composition picture are the few that are wearable only at home.
So a quick recap.
BPF 8-2009-493: This was round 2 with this top. My dd happily inherited round one. This version I did my usual FBA, shortened the shoulder length, shortened the sleeve length and shortened the body length (petite). What I like about this pattern is that it has a cozy fit. Will be great during the long winters. What I did not like is that on my rectangle (H shape) body it looked really boxy and gave me new appearance of a shape. Fabric recycle from Goodwill cost of project $2.50
Simplicity3699: This was a test garment for the SWAP on PR. I decided it would make the perfect PJ top. I did my usual FBA and shortened the top from the hem. It was nice not to have to do to many alterations. A little more tweaking and I should have a TNT knit top. What I like The fit is really close to correct for my shape. What I need to work on working with binding and neck lines that have binding. Found out I need to work on this.
Easy Sewing The Kwik Sew Way: I made the t-shirt and the knit pants from this pattern. The T- shirt surprised me. This was my 5th try at this simple garment and my last. Not sure why but I am not impressed with t-shirt pattern. I ended up starting with a M even though my measurement would indicate I need a x-large. I'm still not satisfied that the sleeves and shoulders are correct. I did my normal FBA and shortened this pattern. I'm starting to see trend that I need to shorten my patterns. The pants Went together quickly. Alterations on this one included crotch depth shortened and length shortened.
Simplicity 3699, and the two Kwik Sew pieces made a nice set of PJ's (lounge wear) for this fall. The jersey from this project came from Goodwill and the cost for all 3 pieces $5.00
Simplicity 4503: Oh my cheetah skirt. I was so excited the day this cheetah print fabric arrived from fabric.com. I was not so excited once I finished Simplicity 4503. The a-line skirt fit just fine but did nothing for me. Instead of make the rectangular (H shape) look like it had curves it hung straight from the waist and looked frumpy. In attempted to save the skirt I tuned it into a pencil skirt by taking it in 5 inches on each side at hem. Like that the skirt is so light weight. Dislike even with alteration skirt did not make it to the yes I can wear this to work stage. Project cost: $9.00
BWOF 1-2009-131: Practice, practice and more practice was called for on this top. I pulled out the bonded neck 4 times and still it is not correct. I love this top and will make it again to practice the binding. Since this was also a muslin I tried to use fabric scraps. It was made with the left over Cheetah Charmeuse from fabric.com and some poly interlock for Hancock. Cost of project $9.00
BWOF 6-2009-137: These pants were actually a June/July project. I haven't reviewed them yet so I thought I would add them here. This pattern is another one of those patterns not good with my rectangle body. The pattern has these great in the seam cut out pockets. On fortunately on me they stick out. The good thing about this pattern for the rectangular sewist is that it has a faced waist instead of a waist band. The waist also sits nice and high so you feel covered. Project Polyester stretch twill from Fabric.com cost of project $9.00

September is going to be a better sewing month for me. It's the begining of PR 3 month long SWAP. I was not excited by my original SWAP plan so I created a new one. Below is the new story board. Well it's time to get sewing.

Fall SWAP

2009-08-21T20:12:00.000-07:00

OK so in past I mentioned that on
PR there is going to to be a wardrobe SWAP contest coming up from September 1 to November 30. I'm so excited for this contest. The last SWAP I entered I didn't finish and I'm hoping this one will give me the motivation I need to do all 3 stages of the SWAP mentioned in this
article.
My goals are to create clothing that is fun and playful, able to work at both my job, and at relaxing times with my kids. Although I know not all the pieces will be able to do everything I'm excited to see what they can do.

SWAP Goals 5 tops, 4 bottoms and a topper. All tops must go with all bottoms and topper must go with all outfits created.

Today when I started my day this is what my storyboard looked like.

Items for my tops are Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way long sleeve t-shirt, BWOF 01-2009-131, BWOF 06-2009-135, BPF F/W 2009 403, Simplicity 3699, McCall's 5630. Yes I have an extra top here you never no when something doesn't go as planned. The bottoms are BWOF 01-2009-132, BWOF 04-2009-134, BPF S/S 2009 411 (I'll be lengthening these to be pants) and Simplicity 4503. I've chosen two toppers at the moment because I can't decide. They are McCall's 5860 and BPF F/W 2009 424.

But.......

Today I worked on a second wearable muslin of BPF F/W 403. The first one my dd is wearing in the picture below. This one is ok at best. I'll post a review and pictures once I have a camera man. My basic problem with this top is that with my rectangular (H) body shape I can not make it look like I have any shape. I feel like I'm wearing a pillow case or some thing. Please tell me your thoughts once I write the review but for now it is off the SWAP storyboard. I hope to find a replacement.

Another current goal is to to create some TNT patterns that fit me very well. I've noticed that many of my favorite bloggers seem to have a file cabinet full of their tried and true (TNT) patterns.

Have fun sewing .......

Burda Plus Fashon F/W 403

2009-08-18T22:18:00.000-07:00

Today I spent all day making
BPF 8-2009-403. I had intended it to be a nice top to add to my mini wardrobe. But some things happened first of the top really needs and FBA and to be shortened to fit me correctly. I had an extremely hard time attaching the standing collar of the cowl neck to the back edge. The directions Burda wrote still perplex me. Any way I know the method I did was not correct it created these two little pleats. My dd heard me during the last fitting of the top came out looked at it and said hey mom let me see that. A few minutes she came out wearing the top. This dd does not wear alot of color at all but wow the smile one her face I knew this version was meant for her. We will be getting some black leggings so it is school appropriate. What do you think?

Rainbow Jeans and thoughts on a SWAP

2009-08-17T22:55:00.000-07:00

I finally finished
BWOF 04-2009-134. They turned out to be a great pair of trouser jeans. I love how they have waist darts to help create waist and hip shaping. They then flare gentle to the floor creating a great shape for the wearer. I wore mine to work today (retail job). It was not jean day but these looked dress enough. They wore well with all the bending. lifting, walking and what not I do at my retail job. With that being said when I'm back to my job at the school these will be my Friday jean day pants. Any way I did my topstitching on these in rainbow thread so I've nicknamed them my rainbow jeans.

The fabric I used was 10oz Denim metro blue from fabric.com $3.99 per yard Used 3 yards so $11.97 plus .68 rainbow thread so a pair of pants for $12.65. These are the first pants in my mini SWAP to get ready for the bigger on that starts in September on http://sewing.patternreview.com/ . I'm so excited to start the big 10 piece SWAP. In that SWAP you need to make 4 bottoms, 5 tops and an overpiece. the pieces have to work with each other. Should be challenging but fun. With 90 days to sew it we'll see how many pieces I get done.

Ok, a few weeks back one of the managers I work with in the retail store asked me if I really save a lot of money sewing my own clothes. My answer at the time was I don't know. But when I think about it the two RTW tops I bought that did not make it through the summer cost about as much as all the clothes I made and have been wearing all summer. I was so inspired by her question I decided to try a year long SWAP in which I rebuild my wardrobe only by sewing the garment. This challenge is sewing the clothes I uses in a year excludes undergarments, shoes and acessories. I will post how much the item of clothes cost me and where I bought the fabric. At the end of the year I'll add up how much I spent. I will also post composit pictures.

anyway it llte until next time.

Creating a Fall/Winter SWAP

2009-08-10T12:12:00.001-07:00

Here we go again. It's the time of year where I start to think it's time to change my wardrobe. This year I've opted to sew a SWAP. A SWAP is Sewing With A Plan. My first step was collecting and going through possible fabric, patterns and magazine pictures of items I would like to use. The next step was trying to figure out how I was going to use each of these 20 pieces of fabric. That is what you can see in my slides. I've named each piece to what it will be used for. Sorry picture 2 is a bit fuzzy. What I hope to do is create all the stages in this

great article. The article is broken down into 3 stages that in the end create 28 to 30 pieces that can be mixed together to create a basic wardrobe.

My challenges: I work two jobs. One who's dress code is best descibed as work-casual. The other job's in a retail store is more semi-professional and needs to be some what on trend. To top that all off I'm a busy single mom of 4. So yep you guessed it my wardrobe needs to fit all my roles. Next blog I hope to show you a small grouping of ideas for this SWAP.

Dresses For My Girls

2009-08-08T19:06:00.000-07:00

Ah!!! My first blog post.

Well I finally got done with my dd dresses. It been a long month of sew mainly for my girls. They were invited to a fairly formal wedding so the adventure for the perfect dress started.

My younger girl is very influenced by the styles of the 50's (Grease), the 80's (early Madonna and Cindy Lopper) and a current fashion culture in Japan called Gothic Lolita. The smart girl that she is went shopping in my fabric stash and found the perfect pieces to create her calm look for this wedding out of Burda 9576 . She had to have matching knee length leggings and a petticoat. If she could of totally had her way the petticoat would have had several , more layers of net.

My oldest dd look from

McCalls 5850 is another one of her famous bubble or balloon skirt dress. She tells me the next dress will be a long formal. All though I feel the skirt could have been a size smaller she is very happy with her dress which will also be worn to one of her many school dances.

Like always I try to use as much recycled fabric as I can. When I say recycled what I mean is the fabric was bought at a thrift or Goodwill store. So in this case white bridal satin, and the blue jersey came from a local Goodwill, the eggplant satin from Hancock fabric and the Punchy Pique Dot Azure from fabric.com. Both dress cost me a fraction of the cost in RTW. Really all that matters to me is that the girls are happy.

Next up is sewing for me. I've been working on a TNT T-shirt pattern. I'm also planning a fall SWAP wardrobe. SWAP = sewing with a plan. You can learn more about what that is from this
article. I'll let you know more about my plan at the next blog.