I'm back and off to a skirting start

Wow it feels good to be back checking all my blogger friends projects and reading about new sewing ideas. I had no Idea I had missed so much.  In fall I decided to take at least this year off of my education endeavors and enjoy a little bit of relaxed learning. It did not take long to realize most of the shows I am drawn to on the tv are creative minded and when I started hanging out online at Sure Fit Designs Learning Center, Pattern Review, Esty and many others it became quiet obvious I need to make the trek to the storage areas and get out my sewing books and fabric. Ok several pieces of fabric came out.

Think spring should be the key word around here. Geez with the outside temperature colder than in the arctic and the endless feeling of being trapped inside why not a little thought of fun spring skirts? Some how my brain says that does not computer and here in the first of my skirt sew off skirts is Lutterloh 262-246-2011 (supplement-pattern-year) from my kit.

Pattern: 

Lutterloh 282-246-2011 (supplement-pattern-year) 

Pattern Description: 

This is a basic dart less skirt with two side slits. In their picture the slights are embellished with button holes and buttons.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?.

Yes here is the link to the drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lutterloh has no instructions. I checked my Easy Guide to Sewing book a couple times to make sure I was attaching the zipper and waistband by a good method.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I liked that this pattern was a simple skirt but not your ordinary work appropriate business pencil skirt. The pattern hugs in at the waist and gives plenty of room in the hips.

Fabric Used:

Dark charcoal corduroy that was in my stash. It may have come originally from fabric.com or Hancock’s

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

The size I traced this out in gave me a waist that was 11 cm smaller than what I needed. I wanted the skirt to fit me snug so I added 2.5cm to the side seams at the waist and blended back into the hip. This is the first skirt I have made in years that I did not add elastic to the waist. SurprisingLy I still have plenty of room in the waist area, but I do not feel the need to pull it up every 5 minutes like have with some store bought ones lately.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes to both questions. I think a denim one is working it’s way in my mind.

Conclusion:

This is a nice basic skirt. That makes it a great choice to build the basics in my wardrobe.

On a side note looking at my shelf in these photos and some fitting issues I have had lately I am wondering what shape I have. Any one have any ideas?

Off to figure out what is next. Have a sewtastic day!

One Pattern Many Looks Entries

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It all started in June when I made my Lutterloh skirt . I fell instantly in love with it and knew I wanted to make more. This realization seem to come at the perfect time because PR had just started the newest contest and wouldn't you know it was there One Pattern Many Looks Contest. I wanted to enter. No, I had to enter but first things first I needed to reproduce the skirt more than once and some how make it different each time. Five ideas quickly came to mind and the were wonderful because each one would use some stash fabric.I'm excited to share with you 4 of the five ideas that came to life. A review on how Lutterloh Supplement 281 #145 has become a big part of my summer.

First up, a girl need some thing to play in on those hot days of summer. Why not a white denim skirt.?The fabric of this skirt came from Fabric.com and has been sitting in my stash for a year. I want this skirt to have a little personality but all the look of a pair of white denim pants. All the top stitching on this skirt have been done in black. The pockets I did the same way as I would on a pair of jeans.

Skirt number two was all about a casual shopping trip. We all know how we want to wear something comfortable yet fashionable when we go shopping. Especially clothes shopping. Why not a knit skirt. This skirt was made from some great double knit from the stash. I believe the fabric originally came from fabric.com. This fabric has a lovely cotton feel to it so I believe it may be a cotton/poly blend. I have never been able to find another double knit that feels like this. To spice up this version Fuchsia piping and top stitching was added. Can't forget the great Prada purse thrifted last summer.

 "Girls just want to have fun oh, girls just want to have fun." Thank you Cyndi Lauper for invading the air waves well I grew up. This theme song of the '80's seemed to be constantly on. Unfortunately girls cant always have fun some times it down to business we need to go. That's were skirt number three will come in handy. It is made of a charcoal gray poly suiting I picked up last year during one of fabric.com wonderful sales. This winter paired with some black tights and a cardigan or jacket it will be perfect for the class room.

Last but not least is skirt number four. We all know there are those times when the candles are lit and the lights are dim. Our honey only has eyes for us. They're smiling eyes, happy to enjoy a little Friday night date night time. why not wear designer? This skirt is made out of a great piece of designer Woven Jacquard purchased during fabric.com designer sale fall of 2009. The piece I bought was too tiny to do much with it but this skirt fit it perfectly.

Oh by the way all my 4 tops are from the same pattern too. It is Lutterloh 277 #101 the review of the pattern can be found here and here.  With a new school year approaching my household is about to see a few changes which includes me returning to college. Excited about it but also excited to switch over to fall sewing. Really needs some new dress pants. Happy sewing until next time.

Redo

Lutterloh 281 #145 and Lutterloh 277 #101

Lutterloh 281 #145 and Lutterloh 277 #101

Yep you guessed it I'm still working on my pieces for One Pattern Many Looks Contest on PR. Of course the top now I wont be able to include because I have changed it since I was not 100% happy with the original.  If you recall The arm openings were huge and the it original length on me was more like a tunic or mini dress so I tucked it in with the white skirt.

On PR I was able to get some great suggestions on how to fix my issues. On the Lutterloh board mufffet and Miss Fairchild  wonderful suggestions and on the plus size sew along several ladies directed me to these Webcasts. The one on fitting t-shirts/french darts and french curve were helpful. Thank you ladies.

I think my second top which I have named flower power fits much nicer than the first hot pink one. It is made with some poly knit from my stash that I rescued from Goodwill.  Here is what I did.

Bottom one is the new pattern
the top is the original

1. I traced a second copy of my top front and back.
2. Drew two lines across the pattern one a little above high bust (line a) the second was at about high hip(line b).
3. Then I folded line a up 2 inches and I folded line b up 1 1/2 inches. This shortened the pattern by a total of 5 inches. I did the same to the back pattern.
4. I retraced my front facing piece.
5. I decided instead of raising the bust dart to change it to a french dart. So I lowered it and using the curve of my lutterloh ruler to help create a french curve.
6. When I sewed the new french dart I cut the extra material gathered in the dart to about 1/4 inch giving a smoother look.
7. The rest of the top was sewn identical to the original.
I am much happier with the second top. What do you think? Happy sewing tell next time.

One Pattern Many Looks Challenge and a New Top

Challenge out fit idea 1

What do you do when Pattern Review starts there One Pattern Many Looks Challenge? You start doodling of course. A doodle has become my favorite way to plan an out fit. It doesn't have to look pretty and it doesn't have to be a professional sketch. I have no drawing talent but I at least can take the look from my mind stick it on paper and see if I can get close. 


I decided that Lutterloh Supplement 281 #144 or 145  would be a great canvas to work with. The skirt is easy and adopts quickly to several fabrics and looks.  So the challenge pieces started flowing in my mind. But this blog is not about the skirt it about a new top to go with my challenge piece number one. If you want to know more about the skirt you can here at PR or here at the blog.

Lutterlolh 281 #145 and Lutterloh 277 #101

I love loud bright colors and will wear them year around. I also like clothing that can be layered. This top seem to fit the bill as it can be layered over a tank, cami, turtle neck or t shirt. It can also be the under layer to a cardigan or jacket.

 Pattern: 

Lutterloh Supplement 277 #101

Pattern Description: 

Basic knit tunic length top with v neck, bust darts and cap or short dolman sleeve.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. Your pattern is drafted out using these two measurements. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lutterloh has no instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

This top is one of those that can go from season to season depending on what you add over or under it. The sleeves and the v neck are my favorite parts.

The bust dart. The dart is really located in a place that makes it hard to adjust. Also this is tunic length and just a tad long for that.

Fabric Used:

A rayon ribbed knit I found at Hancock Fabrics. Worth it to try this project but this top really grew.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

The main alteration in this top was trying to move the bust dart so it was really pointing towards the bust instead of the navel. I move my dart up an inch and a half and it still could be moved up more except the bottom of the sleeve is only a ½ away. Not sure how to approach that on the next top.

On this one I used the knit interfacing on the facing pieces. Once attached to the top they were under stitched and then top stitched down about a inch off the edge giving it a nice detail. I also used lace hem binding to stabilize the shoulder seam.

Next top I will also being shorting it by at least 5 inches. If I wore this one un-tucked you would only see about 2 or 3 inches of the bottom of my skirt. Way too long on me. I will also be adjusting the sleeve under arm about 2 or 3 inches to move that bust dart up another inch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Once I figure out how to deal with the darts I will be making it again.  And yes I do recommend it for others it is a very versatile top.

Conclusion: 

This is a great little tunic top that can stretch the season and add a little bit of interest to your wardrobe. 

How Do you Best Learn



The Sewing Library

 How do you best learn? Every year about this time I decide it's time in invest in something new to increase my knowledge of my craft of sewing. My mind starts race should I purchase a new book or DVD. How about a class. Living in the area I do class are pretty much limited to those online at sites like PR or Lutterloh NZ.

Having recently saved 10 yards of denim form my local Goodwill store I've been obsessed with the idea of making a pair of jeans. But were does one begin? Today in the inbox of my email I received ad for Jeans for Real People.  The video is 3 hours long and promises a start to finsh look at making a great pair of jeans. Hmm now it's got me thinking just how much info about jean making is too much. Should I buy this video as well as the project on jean making from Lutterloh NZ? Will this video be a one time watch or a great resource to add to the sewing shelf?

So tell me whats your favorite way to learn and grow into a better sewist? Do you have a favorite resource or class?

A Winter Coat Piece 1 Of The Winter 6 Pack

Currently I am trying to sew along with the 6 piece winter collection at Stitcher's Guild. If I get 4 pieces done by the time Pattern Reviews endless combinations contest. is in the final week I will enter. In the past I get side tracked entering contests.

I have been in need of a new winter coat for sometime. So a year ago I started playing with the idea of making one. With McCalls 4975 and some cheap polar fleece from Walmart I was ready to conquer first time coat making. It did not take very long into the project to realize the cheap fleece was cheap because it weave was not smooth in some places it was so thin you could see through it. So McCalls 4975 became a trial run that lost is fizzle and now sits hidden in a closet.

In spring I bought some new polar fleece well it was on sale at Hancock Fabrics. It wasn't the black I wanted but a lovely shade of gray. Who can work on a winter coat well it's warm out side not me. Fall is here and we have had our first snow fall. Thanks giving being a four day weekend seemed like the prefect time to try a coat again. I could not find the pattern for McCalls 4975 must be hiding up there in the closet with the coat. So out came my lutterloh and supplement 268 #275 seamed to fit what I was looking for.

This project went together so nicely. I had never sewn with polar fleece before. I was very scared to try to place any heat on it so my seams are not pressed open as nicely as I would like but I am happy with my new coat.

The Stats On It

3 yards charcoal polar fleece

3 1 inch black buttons with a shank

3  1 inch snaps.

I did not line this one.

My Review

Pattern Description:

This a wonderful princess seamed full cut winter coat that works well with the full figured and/or curvy.

Pattern Sizing:
Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement. So ideally if your bust and hip are 50cm to 140cm the system should work for you.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes very much

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Lutterloh has no directions. Used A Guide to Fashion Sewing when to double check what I had planned to do.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love how easy the pieces all fit together. Although I know the coat was cut full I wish it skimmed the body a little more.

Fabric Used:
Polar Fleece. I hate the feel of wool close to my skin. :) Even with a lining I would be itching.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

None really. Gosh have not said that in a long time. I did not line this one and I used snaps instead of attempting button holes on this thick fabric.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I will be my daughter pointed out she did not think it will be warm enough for our winters so I am thinking of making a lined one in faux fur.

Yes this is a great little coat. To get your winter coat making skills started.

Conclusion:

I love my new coat and hope to get lots of wear from it.

I'm Big, I'm Beautiful and I'm not bashful about it!

Style and Company at Macy's

Warning this is a rant blog. Please forgive me I'm sick of the whole weight issue in America.

"Fifty Years ago, the fashionable American woman was size 16 going on size 18. Today she is size 12 going on size 10. Tables of statistics have made her health conscious. Mass media have made her youth conscious. Size has become a status symbol." ~ Adele P. Margolis 1969 from How to Make Clothes that Fit and Flatter

Those same statistics, media messages and society pressures are still present toady. Some times so much I want to scream stop please and lets instead except everyone as they are. Size really does not matter but living a health lifestyle does.  It's interesting to me when media tries to get it right how quick the haters come out to continue pushing the pressure on any group of people that do not fit into what they presume to be the correct way. For large woman the number one criticism is get up off your tail and do something.  The number two criticism is well if you wear something that flatters you you'll look better.

I want to look at both of these criticism in short so if I get ranty for give me.

Me made

If you wear something that flatters you you'll look better

Who determines what the current look or trend is? The fashion industry of course. RTW has for a long time over looked the plus size market. Either down sizing or limiting styles to plus size woman. The few stores that cater to nearly half of the adult female population like every one else move up and down with the economy. But often as a plus size woman we don't understand how the fashion industry works. Recently NYT put out an article that attempts to explain the problem. See the link here.  Pattern Reviews very own Kathleen Fasanella was quoted in the article. She further explains her quotes on PR in this discussion of the article. It's funny how and industry that should be helping solve the problem also seems to be the cause.  As mentioned before I work in a shop as my second job. I see woman who have been told for years wear something baggy and it covers your bumps, lumps and other things. They don't understand or are too conscious when told that outfits that skim the body actually make you look thinner and feel better. Those who have embraced wearing the correct foundations, finding a good seamstress for alterations and only buying what really fits and flatters them are some of the most fashionable women in town no matter what size. For me and many of my fellow sewist we have found a way to limit the problems for our own unique bodies and that is to create wonderful garments for our self. Yes some times we create a wader but there are alot more winners the better we get with knowing our body. The funny thing to me is that the problem of what to wear is not just limited to the plus size market but to womens clothing in general. My youngest daughter is a size 00 an we have a hard time finding things to work for her too. So the next time you see a friend, stranger, or co-work dressed to the nine tell her you love her look she probable spent hours looking for or making that great outfit.

Get up off your tail and do something!

"I'm a size 20 who just finished dance teacher training.. six hours of dancing and yoga a day for 10 days. I wonder how many of the people posting nasty comments could keep up?" BoredNowPhillyJuly 29th, 20102:56 pm Comment from the NYT article above.

Lane Bryant top and thrifted pants 2005

Let make it clear not every plus size woman is large because they eat wrong, are lazy, don't exercise or are poor. Recently when I was watching CNN they interviewed a former Secretary of health who made it quiet clear that the current science of things can and does have extremely health people being categorized as obese and overweight. I've often told well meaning friends, relatives and students I really don't loss weight. Only twice since graduating high school have I been less than a size 14. The first time they discovered that I was a diabetic. Being put on food plans, exercise plans and medicine plans brought my weight up to higher than what it currently is. The second time was five years ago well I was on what I call the "divorce diet". Again once the stress of things was off my body the weight came back. Today I focus more on just living a healthy life style making sure my body stays on the strict food plan, walking 2 to 6 miles every day, having enough sleep and just trying my best to be active. I'm a much happier person today because of it.

 It saddens me to see woman who have been dieting and exercising for years hating them self because they cant fit into the model that is so often thrown at us. I often tell these women buy your self a new outfit and enjoy life you might just be at "your perfect" weight. I found it interesting that this study shows that overweight elderly live up to 10 years longer than their thin counterparts. I'm not and advocate for fat or for thin. I do believe we all need to live has healthy as we can.

I'm done ranting and will be back to sewing. Still working on Lutterloh pants. My friend D~ was nice enough to provide me with a playlist (music) the other day so I could do surgery on the pattern. Today I will be making a muslin.

My First Lutterloh Blouse

Lutterloh 2009 19 or Supplement 273 19

and Burda Plus Fashion spring/summer 2008

(E 985) 405 skirt.

 This weekend I got a chance to play with my new Lutterloh System. Let me start out by saying love this system. I went into it totally knowing I would have to make all or most of my usual alterations. But since I have not made a button down blouse that fits me in years I figured it would be a good way to test a garment with the lutterloh. So in essence this is a very nice wearable test garment that will come in handy this fall. I carefully planned and prepared how I would put this garment together since Lutterloh has no directions. My copy of A Guide to Fashion Sewing by Connie Amaden-Crawford was consulted briefly. Over all I am pleased with this blouse.  There are a few fitting issues I will be playing with any suggestions are welcome.

Anyway here is the review I posted on PR. I plan to use this as a layering piece this fall.


Pattern Description:

Easy summer sleeveless blouse with self facing and no collar.

Pattern Sizing:

Lutterloh is based on your bust and hip measurement.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Lutterloh has no directions. Used A Guide to Fashion Sewing when to double check what I had planned to do.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I had been looking for an easy transitional (summer to fall or spring to summer) piece that could be layered but dress enough to wear alone. This sleeveless blouse seems to fit my lifestyle.

Don't really have a dislike yet.

Fabric Used:
This is a poly crepe or a poly-rayon crepe I saved from Goodwill $1.99 for 5 yards.
Sorry did not do a burn test so fabric suggestions based on feel test.
I used about 1.5 to 2 yards of fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I made my usual list of blouse alterations. 2.5 FBA, Moved dart up 1/2 inch. (FFRP) Narrow shoulder adjustment 1/2 inch (Pattern Fitting with Confidence) Removed all back darts need the room for my thick stomach. In the end I had add to much room and had to take out 3/4 inch from each seem and lengthen dart 1 inch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I will be making this again. Want to work a bit on the fit. Yes I would recommend this for others. Beginners need to make sure they have made a blouse before.

Conclusion:

Great little layering piece.

The story of a TNT top.

Once upon a time there was a fashionista who long to find clothes that fit. She searched high and she searched low but RTW often lacked quality and really lacked styles that she was comfortable in.

She relized very quickly that covering her spare tire and lovely twins was hard work. This or that friend offered advice or suggest this store or that. But still a huge struggle of a a possitive self image seemed to follow each shopping trip.

So as a young teen our fashionista began to learn to sew and tailor. The classes at school were good. She finally had some clothes that fit and that she loved. She dreamed of someday moving to NYC and being a famous designer. But art school did not happen insted 5 little happy peas decided to pop out of their pods and jump around like happy little hot peppers. So our fashionista traded in her fashion for motherhood and happily sewed little baby rompers and kids clothes.

Anyone who loves fashion knows that if the feel of the fabric or the smell of a new garment are left dormant too long the frump frump land can appear often in young mothers. And so it did.

Fashion blood runs deep and soon our young mother found herself working at a shop. A shop that required she dress nice in current season and colors. The fit issues with the RTW started again. But not to be fooled and not to be satisfied our now single mother put on the smock of a sewist.  Armed with fitting books, sewing books and tapes,  patterns and piles of fabric stash and good sewing friends on PR and blogs she set out to find a TNT.  

A TNT she did find in McCalls 5977. The first picture of our sewist is view A. Our second picture is view A played with. Folowing the directions found in Make Your Own Dress Patterns the darts have been rotated to the neckline and the pleated bib left off. The third picture was an experiment of more pattern manipulation following some great ideas in Make Your Own Patterns. All three pieces are part of the pink lipstick collect.

The smile on her face is one of gratitude. She is "sew" happy to have found great inspiration in fellow sewist and ametur designers. To have found out the power of a TNT and pattern manipulation, and the grace of God not to let her give up.

Until next time she is busy working on Burda Style 6-2010-122 for her daughter who really wanted a eyelet dress.

 

Fall SWAP

OK so in past I mentioned that on
PR there is going to to be a wardrobe SWAP contest coming up from September 1 to November 30. I'm so excited for this contest. The last SWAP I entered I didn't finish and I'm hoping this one will give me the motivation I need to do all 3 stages of the SWAP mentioned in this
article.
My goals are to create clothing that is fun and playful, able to work at both my job, and at relaxing times with my kids. Although I know not all the pieces will be able to do everything I'm excited to see what they can do.

SWAP Goals 5 tops, 4 bottoms and a topper. All tops must go with all bottoms and topper must go with all outfits created.

Today when I started my day this is what my storyboard looked like.

Items for my tops are Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way long sleeve t-shirt, BWOF 01-2009-131, BWOF 06-2009-135, BPF F/W 2009 403, Simplicity 3699, McCall's 5630. Yes I have an extra top here you never no when something doesn't go as planned. The bottoms are BWOF 01-2009-132, BWOF 04-2009-134, BPF S/S 2009 411 (I'll be lengthening these to be pants) and Simplicity 4503. I've chosen two toppers at the moment because I can't decide. They are McCall's 5860 and BPF F/W 2009 424.

But.......

Today I worked on a second wearable muslin of BPF F/W 403. The first one my dd is wearing in the picture below. This one is ok at best. I'll post a review and pictures once I have a camera man. My basic problem with this top is that with my rectangular (H) body shape I can not make it look like I have any shape. I feel like I'm wearing a pillow case or some thing. Please tell me your thoughts once I write the review but for now it is off the SWAP storyboard. I hope to find a replacement.

Another current goal is to to create some TNT patterns that fit me very well. I've noticed that many of my favorite bloggers seem to have a file cabinet full of their tried and true (TNT) patterns.

Have fun sewing .......